unbeaten tracks in japan-第7章

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of　Asakusa。　　Hundreds　of　men；　women；　and　children　passed　to　and　fro
through　the　gateway　in　incessant　streams；　and　so　they　are　passing
through　every　daylight　hour　of　every　day　in　the　year；　thousands
becoming　tens　of　thousands　on　the　great　matsuri　days；　when　the
mikoshi；　or　sacred　car；　containing　certain　symbols　of　the　god；　is
exhibited；　and　after　sacred　mimes　and　dances　have　been　performed；
is　carried　in　a　magnificent；　antique　procession　to　the　shore　and
back　again。　　Under　the　gateway　on　either　side　are　the　Ni…o；　or　two
kings；　gigantic　figures　in　flowing　robes；　one　red　and　with　an　open
mouth；　representing　the　Yo；　or　male　principle　of　Chinese
philosophy；　the　other　green　and　with　the　mouth　firmly　closed；
representing　the　In；　or　female　principle。　　They　are　hideous
creatures；　with　protruding　eyes；　and　faces　and　figures　distorted
and　corrupted　into　a　high　degree　of　exaggerated　and　convulsive
action。　　These　figures　guard　the　gates　of　most　of　the　larger
temples；　and　small　prints　of　them　are　pasted　over　the　doors　of
houses　to　protect　them　against　burglars。　　Attached　to　the　grating
in　front　were　a　number　of　straw　sandals；　hung　up　by　people　who　pray
that　their　limbs　may　be　as　muscular　as　those　of　the　Ni…o。

Passing　through　this　gate　we　were　in　the　temple　court　proper；　and
in　front　of　the　temple　itself；　a　building　of　imposing　height　and
size；　of　a　dull　red　colour；　with　a　grand　roof　of　heavy　iron　grey
tiles；　with　a　sweeping　curve　which　gives　grace　as　well　as　grandeur。
The　timbers　and　supports　are　solid　and　of　great　size；　but；　in
common　with　all　Japanese　temples；　whether　Buddhist　or　Shinto；　the
edifice　is　entirely　of　wood。　　A　broad　flight　of　narrow；　steep；
brass…bound　steps　lead　up　to　the　porch；　which　is　formed　by　a　number
of　circular　pillars　supporting　a　very　lofty　roof；　from　which　paper
lanterns　ten　feet　long　are　hanging。　　A　gallery　runs　from　this　round
the　temple；　under　cover　of　the　eaves。　　There　is　an　outer　temple；
unmatted；　and　an　inner　one　behind　a　grating；　into　which　those　who
choose　to　pay　for　the　privilege　of　praying　in　comparative　privacy；
or　of　having　prayers　said　for　them　by　the　priests；　can　pass。

In　the　outer　temple　the　noise；　confusion；　and　perpetual　motion；　are
bewildering。　　Crowds　on　clattering　clogs　pass　in　and　out；　pigeons；
of　which　hundreds　live　in　the　porch；　fly　over　your　head；　and　the
whirring　of　their　wings　mingles　with　the　tinkling　of　bells；　the
beating　of　drums　and　gongs；　the　high…pitched　drone　of　the　priests；
the　low　murmur　of　prayers；　the　rippling　laughter　of　girls；　the
harsh　voices　of　men；　and　the　general　buzz　of　a　multitude。　　There　is
very　much　that　is　highly　grotesque　at　first　sight。　　Men　squat　on
the　floor　selling　amulets；　rosaries；　printed　prayers；　incense
sticks；　and　other　wares。　　Ex　votos　of　all　kinds　hang　on　the　wall
and　on　the　great　round　pillars。　　Many　of　these　are　rude　Japanese
pictures。　　The　subject　of　one　is　the　blowing…up　of　a　steamer　in　the
Sumidagawa　with　the　loss　of　100　lives；　when　the　donor　was　saved　by
the　grace　of　Kwan…non。　　Numbers　of　memorials　are　from　people　who
offered　up　prayers　here；　and　have　been　restored　to　health　or
wealth。　　Others　are　from　junk　men　whose　lives　have　been　in　peril。
There　are　scores　of　men's　queues　and　a　few　dusty　braids　of　women's
hair　offered　on　account　of　vows　or　prayers；　usually　for　sick
relatives；　and　among　them　all；　on　the　left　hand；　are　a　large　mirror
in　a　gaudily　gilt　frame　and　a　framed　picture　of　the　P。　M。　S。　China！
Above　this　incongruous　collection　are　splendid　wood　carvings　and
frescoes　of　angels；　among　which　the　pigeons　find　a　home　free　from
molestation。

Near　the　entrance　there　is　a　superb　incense…burner　in　the　most
massive　style　of　the　older　bronzes；　with　a　mythical　beast　rampant
upon　it；　and　in　high　relief　round　it　the　Japanese　signs　of　the
zodiacthe　rat；　ox；　tiger；　rabbit；　dragon；　serpent；　horse；　goat；
monkey；　cock；　dog；　and　hog。　　Clouds　of　incense　rise　continually
from　the　perforations　round　the　edge；　and　a　black…toothed　woman　who
keeps　it　burning　is　perpetually　receiving　small　coins　from　the
worshippers；　who　then　pass　on　to　the　front　of　the　altar　to　pray。
The　high　altar；　and　indeed　all　that　I　should　regard　as　properly　the
temple；　are　protected　by　a　screen　of　coarsely…netted　iron　wire。
This　holy　of　holies　is　full　of　shrines　and　gods；　gigantic
candlesticks；　colossal　lotuses　of　gilded　silver；　offerings；　lamps；
lacquer；　litany　books；　gongs；　drums；　bells；　and　all　the　mysterious
symbols　of　a　faith　which　is　a　system　of　morals　and　metaphysics　to
the　educated　and　initiated；　and　an　idolatrous　superstition　to　the
masses。　　In　this　interior　the　light　was　dim；　the　lamps　burned　low；
the　atmosphere　was　heavy　with　incense；　and　amidst　its　fumes　shaven
priests　in　chasubles　and　stoles　moved　noiselessly　over　the　soft
matting　round　the　high　altar　on　which　Kwan…non　is　enshrined；
lighting　candles；　striking　bells；　and　murmuring　prayers。　　In　front
of　the　screen　is　the　treasury；　a　wooden　chest　14　feet　by　10；　with　a
deep　slit；　into　which　all　the　worshippers　cast　copper　coins　with　a
ceaseless　clinking　sound。

There；　too；　they　pray；　if　that　can　be　called　prayer　which
frequently　consists　only　in　the　repetition　of　an　uncomprehended
phrase　in　a　foreign　tongue；　bowing　the　head；　raising　the　hands　and
rubbing　them；　murmuring　a　few　words；　telling　beads；　clapping　the
hands；　bowing　again；　and　then　passing　out　or　on　to　another　shrine
to　repeat　the　same　form。　　Merchants　in　silk　clothing；　soldiers　in
shabby　French　uniforms；　farmers；　coolies　in　〃vile　raiment；〃
mothers；　maidens；　swells　in　European　clothes；　even　the　samurai
policemen；　bow　before　the　goddess　of　mercy。　　Most　of　the　prayers
were　offered　rapidly；　a　mere　momentary　interlude　in　the　gurgle　of
careless　talk；　and　without　a　pretence　of　reverence；　but　some　of　the
petitioners　obviously　brought　real　woes　in　simple　〃faith。〃

In　one　shrine　there　is　a　large　idol；　spotted　all　over　with　pellets
of　paper；　and　hundreds　of　these　are　sticking　to　the　wire　netting
which　protects　him。　　A　worshipper　writes　his　petition　on　paper；　or；
better　still；　has　it　written　for　him　by　the　priest；　chews　it　to　a
pulp；　and　spits　it　at　the　divinity。　　If；　having　been　well　aimed；　it
passes　through　the　wire　and　sticks；　it　is　a　good　omen；　if　it　lodges
in　the　netting　the　prayer　has　probably　been　unheard。　　The　Ni…o　and
some　of　the　gods　outside　the　temple　are　similarly　disfigured。　　On
the　left　there　is　a　shrine　with　a　screen；　to　the　bars　of　which
innumerable　prayers　have　been　tied。　　On　the　right；　accessible　to
all；　sits　Binzuru；　one　of　Buddha's　original　sixteen　disciples。　　His
face　and　appearance　have　been　calm　and　amiable；　with　something　of
the　quiet　dignity　of　an　elderly　country　gentleman　of　the　reign　of
George　III。；　but　he　is　now　worn　and　defaced；　and　has　not　much　more
of　eyes；　nose；　and　mouth　than　the　Sphinx；　and　the　polished；　red
lacquer　has　disappeared　from　his　hands　and　feet；　for　Binzuru　is　a
great　medicine　god；　and　centuries　of　sick　people　have　rubbed　his
face　and　limbs；　and　then　have　rubbed　their　own。　　A　young　woman　went
up　to　him；　rubbed　the　back　of　his　neck；　and　then　rubbed　her　own。
Then　a　modest…looking　girl；　leading　an　ancient　woman　with　badly
inflamed　eyelids　and　paralysed　arms；　rubbed　his　eyelids；　and　then
gently　stroked　the　closed　eyelids　of　the　crone。　　Then　a　coolie；
with　a　swelled　knee；　applied　himself　vigorously　to　Binzuru's　knee；
and　more　gently　to　his　own。　　Remember；　this　is　the　great　temple　of
the　populace；　and　〃not　many　rich；　not　many　noble；　not　many　mighty；〃
enter　its　dim；　dirty；　crowded　halls。　｛5｝

But　the　great　temple　to　Kwan…non　is　not　the　only　sight　of　Asakusa。
Outside　it　are　countless　shrines　and　temples；　huge　stone　Amainu；　or
heavenly　dogs；　on　rude　blocks　of　stone；　large　cisterns　of　stone　and
bronze　with　and　without　canopies；　containing　water　for　the
ablutions　of　the　worshippers；　cast　iron　Amainu　on　hewn　stone
pedestalsa　recent　giftbronze　and　stone　lanterns；　a　stone
prayer…wheel　in　a　stone　post；　figures　of　Buddha　with　the　serene
countenance　of　one　who　rests　from　his　labours；　stone　idols；　on
which　devotees　have　pasted　slips　of　paper　inscribed　with　prayers；
with　sticks　of　incense　rising　out　of　the　ashes　of　hundreds　of
former　stic