the ways of men-第32章
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nd （persuading the government to wink at their evasion of the gambling laws） add games of chance to the other temptations of the place。
There is no better example of the way a spring can be developed by clever handling； and satisfactory results obtained from advertising and judicious expenditure； than Aix… les…Bains； which twenty years ago was but a tiny mountain village； and to…day ranks among the wealthiest and most brilliant EAUX in Europe。 In this case； it is true； they had tradition to fall back on； for Aquae Gratinae was already a favorite watering…place in the year 30 B。C。； when Caesar took the cure。
There is little doubt in my mind that when the Roman Emperor first arrived he found a colony of spinsters and retired army officers （from recently conquered Britain） living around this spring in POPINAE （which are supposed to have corresponded to our modern boarding…house）； wearing waterproof togas and common…sense cothurni； with double cork soles。
The wife of another Caesar fled hither in 1814。 The little inn where she passed a summer in the company of her one…eyed lover … while the fate of her husband and son was being decided at Vienna and Waterloo … is still standing； and serves as the annex of a vast new hotel。
The way in which a watering…place is 〃run〃 abroad； where tourists are regarded as godsends； to be cherished； spoiled； and despoiled； is amusingly different from the manner of our village populations when summer visitors （whom they look upon as natural enemies） appear on the scene。 Abroad the entire town； together with the surrounding villages； hamlets； and farmhouses； rack their brains and devote their time to inventing new amusements for the visitor； and original ways of enticing the gold from his pocket … for； mind you； on both continents the object is the same。 In Europe the rural Machiavellis have had time to learn that smiling faces and picturesque surroundings are half the battle。
Another point which is perfectly understood abroad is that a cure must be largely mental； that in consequence boredom retards recovery。 So during every hour of the day and evening a different amusement is provided for those who feel inclined to be amused。 At Aix； for instance； Colonne's orchestra plays under the trees at the Villa des Fleurs while you are sipping your after…luncheon coffee。 At three o'clock 〃Guignol〃 performs for the youngsters。 At five o'clock there is another concert in the Casino。 At eight o'clock an operetta is given at the villa； and a comedy in the Casino； both ending discreetly at eleven o'clock。 Once a week； as a variety； the park is illuminated and fireworks help to pass the evening。
If neither music nor Guignol tempts you； every form of trap from a four…horse break to a donkey…chair （the latter much in fashion since the English queen's visit） is standing ready in the little square。 On the neighboring lake you have but to choose between a dozen kinds of boats。 The hire of all these modes of conveyance being fixed by the municipality； and plainly printed in boat or carriage； extortions or discussions are impossible。 If you prefer a ramble among the hills； the wily native is lying in wait for you there also。 When you arrive breathless at your journey's end； a shady arbor offers shelter where you may cool off and enjoy the view。 It is not by accident that a dish of freshly gathered strawberries and a bowl of milk happen to be standing near by。
When bicycling around the lake you begin to feel how nice a half hour's rest would be。 Presto！ a terrace overhanging the water appears； and a farmer's wife who proposes brewing you a cup of tea； supplementing it with butter and bread of her own making。 Weak human nature cannot withstand such blandishments。 You find yourself becoming fond of the people and their smiling ways； returning again and again to shores where you are made so welcome。 The fact that 〃business〃 is at the bottom of all this in no way interferes with one's enjoyment。 On the contrary； to a practical mind it is refreshing to see how much can be made of a little； and what a fund of profit and pleasure can be extracted from small things； if one goes to work in the right way。
The trick can doubtless be overdone： at moments one feels the little game is worked a bit too openly。 The other evening； for instance； when we entered the dining…room of our hotel and found it decorated with flags and flowers； because； forsooth； it was the birthday of 〃Victoria R。 and I。；〃 when champagne was offered at dessert and the band played 〃God Save the Queen；〃 while the English solemnly stood up in their places； it did seem as if the proprietor was poking fun at his guests in a sly way。
I was apparently the only person； however； who felt this。 The English were much flattered by the attention； so I snubbed myself with the reflection that if the date had been July 4； I doubtless should have considered the flags and music most A PROPOS。
There are also moments when the vivid picturesqueness of this place comes near to palling on one。 Its beauty is so suspiciously like a set scene that it gives the impression of having been arranged by some clever decorator with an eye to effect only。
One is continually reminded of that inimitable chapter in Daudet's TARTARIN SUR LES ALPES； when the hero discovers that all Switzerland is one enormous humbug； run to attract tourists； that the cataracts are 〃faked；〃 and avalanches arranged beforehand to enliven a dull season。 Can anything be more delicious than the disillusion of Tartarin and his friends； just back from a perilous chamois hunt； on discovering that the animal they had exhausted themselves in following all day across the mountains； was being refreshed with hot wine in the kitchen of the hotel by its peasant owner？
When one visits the theatrical abbey across the lake and inspects the too picturesque tombs of Savoy's sovereigns； or walks in the wonderful old garden； with its intermittent spring； the suspicion occurs； in spite of one's self； that the whole scene will be folded up at sunset and the bare…footed 〃brother〃 who is showing us around with so much unction will； after our departure； hurry into another costume； and appear later as one of the happy peasants who are singing and drinking in front of that absurdly operatic little inn you pass on the drive home。
There is a certain pink cottage； with a thatched roof and overhanging vines； about which I have serious doubts； and fully expect some day to see Columbine appear on that pistache…green balcony （where the magpie is hanging in a wicker cage）； and； taking Arlequin's hand； disappear into the water…butt while Clown does a header over the half…door； and the cottage itself turns into a gilded coach； with Columbine kissing her hand from the window。
A problem which our intelligent people have not yet set themselves to solve； is being worked out abroad。 The little cities of Europe have discovered that prosperity comes with the tourist； that with increased facilities of communication the township which expends the most in money and brains in attracting rich travellers to its gates is the place that will grow and prosper。 It is a simple lesson； and one that I would gladly see our American watering…places learn and apply。
Chapter 24 … The Better Part
AS I watch； year after year； the flowers of our aristocratic hothouses blooming behind the glass partitions of their conservatories； tended always by the same gardeners； admired by the same amateurs； and then； for the most part； withering unplucked on their virgin stems； I wonder if the wild flowers appreciate the good luck that allows them to taste the storm and the sunshine untrammelled and disperse perfume according to their own sweet will。
To drop a cumbersome metaphor； there is not the shadow of a doubt that the tamest and most monotonous lives in this country are those led by the women in our 〃exclusive〃 sets； for the good reason that they are surrounded by all the trammels of European society without enjoying any of its benefits； and live in an atmosphere that takes the taste out of exis
