cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第24章

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marshes　scored　by　innumerable　ditches；　to　be　in　their　turn　filled　with
mud　when　the　next　flood　shall　extend　over　the　wide　surface　and　increase
the　deposit。

This　is　the　position　of　the　Pedias；　and　until　improved　I　cannot　foresee
a　good　sanitary　prospect　for　Famagousta；　which　is　situated　on　the
borders　of　the　swamp。　There　can　be　only　one　engineering　method　of
preventing　the　silt；　by　confining　the　river　between　artificial　banks；
within　a　channel　sufficiently　narrow　to　ensure　a　current　whose　velocity
would　carry　the　heavy　fluid　directly　into　the　sea。　Even　should　this　be
accomplished；　and　the　river　be　securely　banked；　the　deposit　of　mud　will
then　take　place　within　the　sea；　and　will　assuredly　form　a　bar；　which
will　probably　affect　by　silt　the　neighbouring　harbour　of　Famagousta　in
the　same　manner　that　the　ancient　port　of　Salamis　has　been　completely
obliterated。　In　any　case　the　engineering　difficulty　will　be　costly　and
uncertain；　but　if　Famagousta　is　to　be　restored　to　its　former　importance
as　a　first…rate　harbour；　arsenal；　and　military　station；　the　management
of　the　Pedias　river　must　be　seriously　considered。

We　arrived　at　Trichomo　at　about　3　P。M。　The　town　is　built　upon　the　sides
and　summit　of　high　ground　within　a　mile　of　the　sea。　The　sight　of　a
narrow　iron　chimney　emitting　puffs　of　steam　showed　that　some　progress
was　exhibited　by　the　presence　of　an　enginethis　was　employed　in　working
cotton…gins。

The　houses　were　the　usual　sun…baked　bricks　of　clay　and　chopped　straw；
and　although　the　town　was　large；　there　was　no　building　of　sufficient
importance　to　attract　attention。　We　rode　through　the　streets　determined
as　usual　to　avoid　the　smells　of　a　close　proximity　and　to　seek　a
camping…place　some　distance　upon　the　opposite　side。　After　passing
through　the　town　and　descending　a　hill；　we　then　ascended　a　steep　slope
which　opened　upon　a　wild　country　of　rocky　ground　covered　with　the　usual
prickly　plants　and　scrub　cypress；　which　had　evidently　been　cut　for　fuel
until　it　had　become　mere　brushwood。　There　was　a　square　mud　hut　on　the
left　hand　standing　in　an　extensive　orchard　of　fruit…trees　watered　by　a
cattle…wheel；　and　as　this　was　the　last　habitation　within　view；　we
halted；　and　awaited　the　arrival　of　the　carts　and　camels。　From　the　summit
of　the　hill；　about　two　hundred　yards　beyond　this　spot；　the　view　was
exceedingly　good；　the　sea　lay　about　half　a　mile　distant；　with　several
houses　and　gardens　near　the　shore。　The　town　was　in　our　rear；　and　to　the
east　was　a　fine　extent　of　wild　country　covered　with　bush　and
dwarf…cypress；　which　formed　a　marked　contrast　to　the　naked　surface　we
had　left　behind。　The　rugged　wall　of　the　Carpas　range　was　now　only　ten
miles　distant　on　our　left；　and　continued　parallel　to　our　route。　。　。　。　。
It　was　late　when　the　carts　arrived；　and　we　now　missed　the　usual　luxury
of　the　gipsy…van。　I　determined　to　save　the　servants　the　trouble　of
erecting　our　tent；　therefore　for　the　first　time　in　Cyprus　we　occupied
the　native　dwelling。　This　was　a　square　hut　built　of　stone　and　mud；　with
the　usual　hard　mud　roof。　From　its　large　size　it　was　evident　that　animals
shared　the　room　with　the　proprietors。　An　old　man　and　a　corresponding　old
woman　gave　us　a　welcome；　and　immediately　commenced　sweeping　out　the
floor　for　our　accommodation；　this　might　have　been　thirty　feet　by
eighteen　in　width。　After　a　cloud　of　dust　had　risen；　and　by　degrees
subsided；　we　took　possession；　the　carts　and　camels　arrived；　beds　had　to
be　unpacked　and　set　up；　and　the　servants　began　to　reflect　upon　the
advantages　of　the　van　which　saved　them　the　present　trouble。　It　was
already　dusk；　but　the　beds　were　made；　and　Christo　the　cook　（who　was　a
capital　fellow　for　speed　in　preparing　a　dinner）　was　enveloped　in　savoury
steam；　when　the　usual　inmates　of　the　hut　quietly　invaded　us。　Cocks　and
hens　marched　in；　and　went　to　roost　upon　some　sticks　within　a　corner；　two
or　three　dogs　arrived；　evidently　with　the　intention　of　staying　through
the　night；　a　donkey　at　length　walked　composedly　through　the　entrance
door　and　steered　for　his　accustomed　corner。　We　had　caused　serious
inconvenience　to　an　unknown　quantity　of　animals；　all　of　whom　had　to　be
turned　out；　except　the　poultry。　What　a　good　thing　is　dinner！　The　neat
tiny　table　was　spread　and　the　candles　lighted；　the　dishes　were　simple
but　excellent；　we　were　thoroughly　comfortable　in　this　rude　dwelling；
butit　might　have　been　fancyI　thought　something　tickled　my　legs。
There　was　no　mistake；　something　did　actually　not　only　tickle；　but　bite。
Something？　It　was　everything　and　everybody　in　the　shape　of　fleas！　The
hut　was　hopping　with　countless　swarms　of　these　detestable　vermin；　from
which　in　our　impregnable　van　we　had　hitherto　been　free；　owing　to　its
great　height　from　the　ground。　Whether　the　unusual　sweeping　of　the　floor
had　created　a　temporary　aberration　of　intellect　or　stupefaction　among
these　crowds；　I　cannot　determine；　but　whatever　the　nervous　shock　might
have　been　that　had　caused　a　short　suspension　of　activity；　they　had　now
completely　recovered；　and　I　shall　never　forget　the　night　passed　in
Trichomo。　It　was　the　first　and　the　last　venture　upon　native　hospitality
throughout　our　sojourn　in　Cyprus；　and　we　in　future　adhered　either　to　the
tent　or　the　gipsy…van。

On　the　following　morning　we　started　at　8。30。　The　sky　was　overcast；　and
in　any　country　but　this　we　should　have　expected　rain。　We　had　now　fairly
emerged　upon　a　district　entirely　different　from　the　hateful　Messaria；
which　has　given　Cyprus　an　unfortunate　reputation。　We　were　quickly　among
thickets　of　scrub　and　low　brushwood　which　should　have　teemed　with　game。
My　spaniels　delighted　in　the　change；　and　worked　the　bush　thoroughly　as
we　proceeded　along　the　route；　occasionally　flushing　two　or　three
red…legged　partridges。　Passing　over　the　higher　ground　with　the　sea　in
view　upon　our　right；　we　descended　after　a　march　of　about　three　miles　to
the　shore；　where　the　path　skirted　the　sea　along　broken　rocks；　against
which　in　bad　weather　the　waves　would　dash　with　sufficient　violence　to
bar　the　road。　The　white　cliffs　and　hill…tops　to　our　left　were　covered
with　dwarf…cypress；　and　formed　a　lovely　foreground　above　the　sea；
perfectly　calm　beneath。　The　ride　was　apparently　short；　although　we　had
been　in　the　saddle　three　hours；　as　the　eye　had　been　gratified　by　a
constant　change　of　scenery；from　rocks　washed　by　the　blue　water　to
hills　covered　with　a　dense　foliage　of　evergreens；　and　deep　sequestered
valleys；　with　occasional　gaps　in　the　range　of　heights　through　which
glimpses　of　the　sea　in　rocky　coves　burst　suddenly　into　view。　Some　of
these　inlets　were　exceedingly　picturesque；　as　reefs　extended　from　the
shore；　overhanging　cliffs　having　from　time　to　time　fallen　in　huge　crags
and　formed　natural　breakwaters　to　the　beach。　These　narrow　gaps　between
the　hills　were　generally　occupied　by　a　streamlet　in　the　centre；　which
had　cut　its　way　far　below　the　level　of　the　ground；　the　steep　banks　of
which　were　fringed　with　oleanders；　myrtles；　mastic；　and　other
evergreens；　down　to　within　a　few　yards　of　the　breaking　waves。　Nothing
could　be　prettier；　and　upon　arrival　within　sight　of　Volokalida；　about　a
mile　and　a　half　distant　in　the　extreme　end　of　a　narrow　valley；　I
directed　my　wife　to　a　camping…place　near　the　village；　beneath　some　large
and　prominent　caroub…trees；　while　I　dismounted；　and　with　my　delighted
dogs　commenced　a　ramble　over　the　low　woods　which　covered　the　sides　and
hill…tops　to　our　right　and　left。　The　walk　was　enjoyable；　we　had　made
fourteen　miles　from　Trichomo；　and　upon　reaching　the　perfectly　flat
tableland　which　formed　the　summit　of　the　hills　I　had　a　splendid　sea…view
extending　for　many　miles　along　the　coast。　The　first　object　that
attracted　my　attention　was　a　large　steamer　stranded　in　a　cove　about　a
mile　distant。　She　looked　perfectly　snug；　but　as　only　her　lower　masts
were　standing；　and　funnel　gone；　there　could　be　no　doubt　of　her
misadventure。　My　binocular　glass　quickly　showed　that　a　portion　of　her
bulwarks　was　carried　away；　and　as　no　chain　was　visible　to　an　anchor；　she
was　in　fact　a　wreck。　As　I　made　my　way　through　the　thick　bushes　Merry
presently　opened　upon　a　scent；　and　Wise　running　in　among　the　rocks；
flushed　a　fine　francolin　partridge；　which　I　shot。　I