cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第41章
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insufficient for the requirements of the country; the really overworked
and energetic servants of the Crown were absolutely obliged to practise
a most rigid economy; commencing with their own salaries; equally
vexatious to themselves and unworthy of our high position。
The curious collection of old cannon had all been removed by the Turks;
but one iron piece remained; which; being almost worthless as metal; had
been left behind when the bronze guns had been shipped to
Constantinople。 This was a great curiosity; as it somewhat resembled a
hand…bell about five feet in length; the bell which formed the mouth to
receive the ball was only two feet in length; although the muzzle was
sufficiently wide to admit the stone projectile of nineteen inches
diameter。 The portion which resembled the handle of a bell was the
continuation which formed the narrow chamber for the powder; this was
about three feet long and eight inches thick*。 (*These measurements are
from memory; excepting the diameter of muzzle; which I took on the
spot。) There were no trunnions to this singular old gun; but it may have
been lashed to some lever which could be raised or depressed; and it was
evidently intended for firing into shipping from the fort walls; to
command the harbour at a short range。 It had been cast with concentric
rings; which I examined carefully; as at first I imagined they had been
wrought…iron shrunk on to the casting: this was not the case; but the
extra thickness of metal at the rings added sufficient strength。 The
large stone shot; formed of a peculiarly hard metamorphous rock (a
conglomerate of matter that had been fused by heat); were to be seen in
various positions within the fortress。 A few were on the parapet above
the drawbridge; as though prepared for rolling over upon an assaulting
party。 I found this quality of rock upon the mountains within two miles
of Kyrenia。
There were evidently two harbours; which included the small bay upon
either side of the present fort; that upon the west was the most
important; as the depth of water is greater; and it shows evident signs
of having received peculiar attention。 The remains of the ancient moles
still exist; and afford considerable protection; but the sea has broken
through in several places and washed away the upper tiers of stones。
These moles were carefully constructed by laying the masonry upon a
foundation of hydraulic cement; which connected the various natural
rocks; the layer of cement still exists; while the squared blocks of the
original surface may be seen at the bottom; where they have been
deposited by the waves。 Like all defensive works in historical
countries; those of Kyrenia have undergone continual changes and
modifications; as from time to time alterations may have been suggested
by successful attacks。 In a ruined tower which; completely isolated
within the sea; commanded the entrance of the harbour on the west; I
observed that an ancient column of white marble from some old building
has been used as a key to prevent the large squared stones from yielding
to the constant vibration caused by the breaking waves。 Each tier of
stones has been cut at the central edge to form a half…circle where the
edges of the adjoining blocks were connected; those have been similarly
shaped to produce a complete circle when faced together。 The squared
stones in the lower and upper tiers have been perforated in a circle; so
that when several courses of masonry were completed; the hole
represented a shaft of about twelve inches diameter; sunk from top to
bottom; the marble column has been inserted from the top; and has tied
each course effectively together; the havoc occasioned in this tower of
solid squared blocks is the work of man; the stones have until recently
been removed for the purposes of building。
Kyrenia could never have been a perfectly safe harbour in all weathers;
as the entrance is open to the north。 There is a slight turn to the
east; which might have protected a few small vessels during a northerly
gale; but this portion is now silted up; and it should be cleared by
dredging。 The houses rise above the harbour from the water's edge to the
cliffs; forming a horseshoe shape。 Mr。 Holbeach had just completed a
small quay of masonry; and a very moderate outlay would restore the
ancient mole and render Kyrenia an important port for the trading
vessels of Syria and Asia Minor。 When a good carriage…road shall be
completed to the capital; Lefkosia; only sixteen miles distant; the
value of Kyrenia as a commercial harbour will be much enhanced。 There
are also important towns with a considerable population within eight or
nine miles of Kyrenia on the west: Carava and Lapithas would offer
markets for a great extension of trade; and Morphu would be brought
within the same commercial circle。 There is a peculiar advantage
throughout the ports of Cyprus in the presence of stone quarries upon
the spot where the material is required; this is specially marked at
Kyrenia; where the solid rock; with its tombs; cave…dwellings; and
ancient quarries; is on the actual borders of the sea; within a few
yards of the existing harbour。 There would be no great difficulty in
converting these quarries into a dock; should a demand for stone be
sufficient to repay the outlay for cutting the supply; according to the
example already exhibited and left to us by the ancients。
The quarries of Kyrenia form the chief curiosity of the locality。 The
rock is the sedimentary limestone mixed with a proportion of sand that
is the characteristic geological feature around the coast of Cyprus; but
in these quarries the stone is perfectly solid and free from fissures;
which enables the mason to obtain blocks of any size。 From prehistoric
times the rock of Kyrenia; which rises about forty feet above the
sea…level; has been worked out upon the most careful method; every block
has been cut from the parent mass by measurement; and no broken edges
have been permitted to destroy the symmetry of the adjoining stone。 The
work was commenced from the top; or surface of the rock; and a smooth
cliff face has been produced as the first operation; upon completion the
surface has been lined out parallel with the perpendicular face; and the
blocks have been carefully chiselled and removed by wedges driven
horizontally from beneath。 In this manner the rock has been worked until
it resembled a flight of steps; which remain in many places perfect to
the present hour。 The entire fortress and town have been constructed
from these quarries; and there can be no doubt that when Kyrenia was
originally founded by the Dorian colonists under Cepheus and Praxander
the stones were obtained from the existing site。 There is a considerable
difference in the quality of the rock; which has been remarked by the
original builders; as a passage has been cut through the first cliff
face nearest to the town; and the desired level for wheeled conveyances
having been obtained; the workmen have discovered a superior stone as
they proceeded into the bowels of the quarry。 They have accordingly
neglected much of the nearer portion; and have excavated a large square;
always pushing forward towards the west; which is now terminated by a
worked perpendicular face and a series of steps incomplete; precisely as
it remained when the last chisel relinquished the labour。
This quality of rock in all parts of Cyprus is cavernous; and the
natural caves have suggested to the ancients an artificial extension
both for dwellings and for cemeteries。 The rock is easily worked by the
mason's pick; and near the town I observed an old fort…ditch which had
been originally excavated for the double object of quarrying building
stone at the same time that it served the purpose of defence。 There
would be no great difficulty in connecting the ancient quarry with the
harbour by cutting a canal through the soft rock and extending the depth
of the ancient excavations。 It is well known to all quarrymen that the
stone should be placed in a building according to the position in which
it lay when forming the original rock。 Within the fortress of Kyrenia
there are many examples of neglect; whe