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a large perllan or orchard; which sloped down gently to the banks 
of the Dee; its back was towards the road leading from Wrexham; 
behind which was a high bank; on the top of which was a canal 
called in Welsh the Camlas; whose commencement was up the valley 
about two miles west。  A little way up the road; towards Wrexham; 
was the vicarage and a little way down was a flannel factory; 
beyond which was a small inn; with pleasure grounds; kept by an 
individual who had once been a gentleman's servant。  The mistress 
of the house was a highly respectable widow; who; with a servant 
maid was to wait upon us。  It was as agreeable a place in all 
respects as people like ourselves could desire。

As I and my family sat at tea in our parlour; an hour or two after 
we had taken possession of our lodgings; the door of the room and 
that of the entrance to the house being open; on account of the 
fineness of the weather; a poor black cat entered hastily; sat down 
on the carpet by the table; looked up towards us; and mewed 
piteously。  I never had seen so wretched a looking creature。  It 
was dreadfully attenuated; being little more than skin and bone; 
and was sorely afflicted with an eruptive malady。  And here I may 
as well relate the history of this cat previous to our arrival 
which I subsequently learned by bits and snatches。  It had belonged 
to a previous vicar of Llangollen; and had been left behind at his 
departure。  His successor brought with him dogs and cats; who; 
conceiving that the late vicar's cat had no business at the 
vicarage; drove it forth to seek another home; which; however; it 
could not find。  Almost all the people of the suburb were 
dissenters; as indeed were the generality of the people of 
Llangollen; and knowing the cat to be a church cat; not only would 
not harbour it; but did all they could to make it miserable; whilst 
the few who were not dissenters; would not receive it into their 
houses; either because they had cats of their own; or dogs; or did 
not want a cat; so that the cat had no home and was dreadfully 
persecuted by nine…tenths of the suburb。  Oh; there never was a cat 
so persecuted as that poor Church of England animal; and solely on 
account of the opinions which it was supposed to have imbibed in 
the house of its late master; for I never could learn that the 
dissenters of the suburb; nor indeed of Llangollen in general; were 
in the habit of persecuting other cats; the cat was a Church of 
England cat; and that was enough:  stone it; hang it; drown it! 
were the cries of almost everybody。  If the workmen of the flannel 
factory; all of whom were Calvinistic…Methodists; chanced to get a 
glimpse of it in the road from the windows of the building; they 
would sally forth in a body; and with sticks; stones; or for want 
of other weapons; with clots of horse dung; of which there was 
always plenty on the road; would chase it up the high bank or 
perhaps over the Camlas; the inhabitants of a small street between 
our house and the factory leading from the road to the river; all 
of whom were dissenters; if they saw it moving about the perllan; 
into which their back windows looked; would shriek and hoot at it; 
and fling anything of no value; which came easily to hand; at the 
head or body of the ecclesiastical cat。  The good woman of the 
house; who though a very excellent person; was a bitter dissenter; 
whenever she saw it upon her ground or heard it was there; would 
make after it; frequently attended by her maid Margaret; and her 
young son; a boy about nine years of age; both of whom hated the 
cat; and were always ready to attack it; either alone or in 
company; and no wonder; the maid being not only a dissenter; but a 
class teacher; and the boy not only a dissenter; but intended for 
the dissenting ministry。  Where it got its food; and food it 
sometimes must have got; for even a cat; an animal known to have 
nine lives; cannot live without food; was only known to itself; as 
was the place where it lay; for even a cat must lie down sometimes; 
though a labouring man who occasionally dug in the garden told me 
he believed that in the springtime it ate freshets; and the woman 
of the house once said that she believed it sometimes slept in the 
hedge; which hedge; by…the…bye; divided our perllan from the 
vicarage grounds; which were very extensive。  Well might the cat 
after having led this kind of life for better than two years look 
mere skin and bone when it made its appearance in our apartment; 
and have an eruptive malady; and also a bronchitic cough; for I 
remember it had both。  How it came to make its appearance there is 
a mystery; for it had never entered the house before; even when 
there were lodgers; that it should not visit the woman; who was its 
declared enemy; was natural enough; but why if it did not visit her 
other lodgers; did it visit us?  Did instinct keep it aloof from 
them?  Did instinct draw it towards us?  We gave it some bread…and…
butter; and a little tea with milk and sugar。  It ate and drank and 
soon began to purr。  The good woman of the house was horrified when 
on coming in to remove the things she saw the church cat on her 
carpet。  〃What impudence!〃 she exclaimed; and made towards it; but 
on our telling her that we did not expect that it should be 

disturbed; she let it alone。  A very remarkable circumstance was; 
that though the cat had hitherto been in the habit of flying; not 
only from her face; but the very echo of her voice; it now looked 
her in the face with perfect composure; as much as to say; 〃I don't 
fear you; for I know that I am now safe and with my own people。〃  
It stayed with us two hours and then went away。  The next morning 
it returned。  To be short; though it went away every night; it 
became our own cat; and one of our family。  I gave it something 
which cured it of its eruption; and through good treatment it soon 
lost its other ailments and began to look sleek and bonny。



CHAPTER VIII



The Mowers … Deep Welsh … Extensive View … Old Celtic Hatred … Fish 
Preserving … Smollet's Morgan。


NEXT morning I set out to ascend Dinas Bran; a number of children; 
almost entirely girls; followed me。  I asked them why they came 
after me。  〃In the hope that you will give us something;〃 said one 
in very good English。  I told them that I should give them nothing; 
but they still followed me。  A little way up the hill I saw some 
men cutting hay。  I made an observation to one of them respecting 
the fineness of the weather; he answered civilly; and rested on his 
scythe; whilst the others pursued their work。  I asked him whether 
he was a farming man; he told me that he was not; that he generally 
worked at the flannel manufactory; but that for some days past he 
had not been employed there; work being slack; and had on that 
account joined the mowers in order to earn a few shillings。  I 
asked him how it was he knew how to handle a scythe; not being bred 
up a farming man; he smiled; and said that; somehow or other; he 
had learnt to do so。

〃You speak very good English;〃 said I; 〃have you much Welsh?〃

〃Plenty;〃 said he; 〃I am a real Welshman。〃

〃Can you read Welsh?〃 said I。

〃Oh; yes!〃 he replied。

〃What books have you read?〃 said I。

〃I have read the Bible; sir; and one or two other books。〃

〃Did you ever read the Bardd Cwsg?〃 said I。

He looked at me with some surprise。  〃No;〃 said he; after a moment 
or two; 〃I have never read it。  I have seen it; but it was far too 
deep Welsh for me。〃

〃I have read it;〃 said I。

〃Are you a Welshman?〃 said he。

〃No;〃 said I; 〃I am an Englishman。〃

〃And how is it;〃 said he; 〃that you can read Welsh without being a 
Welshman?〃

〃I learned to do so;〃 said I; 〃even as you learned to mow; without 
being bred up to farming work。〃

〃Ah! 〃said he; 〃but it is easier to learn to mow than to read the 
Bardd Cwsg。〃

〃I don't think that;〃 said I; 〃I have taken up a scythe a hundred 
times but I cannot mow。〃

〃Will your honour take mine now; and try again?〃 said he。

〃No;〃 said I; 〃for if I take your scythe in hand I must give you a 
shilling; you know; 

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