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and at my invitation seated himself between me and the stout 
personage。  The latter addressed him roughly in English; but 
receiving no answer said; 〃Ah; you no understand。  You have no 
English and I no Welsh。〃

〃You have not mastered Welsh yet Mr … 〃 said one of the men to him。

〃No!〃 said he:  〃I have been doing business with the Welsh forty 
years; but can't speak a word of their language。  I sometimes guess 
at a word; spoken in the course of business; but am never sure。〃

Presently John Jones began talking to me; saying that he had been 
to the river; that the water was very low; and that there was 
little but stones in the bed of the stream。

I told him if its name was Ceiriog no wonder there were plenty of 
stones in it; Ceiriog being derived from Cerrig; a rock。  The men 
stared to hear me speak Welsh。

〃Is the gentleman a Welshman?〃 said one of the men; near the door; 
to his companion; 〃he seems to speak Welsh very well。〃

〃How should I know?〃 said the other; who appeared to be a low 
working man。

〃Who are those people?〃 said I to John Jones。

〃The smaller man is a workman at a flannel manufactory;〃 said 
Jones。  〃The other I do not exactly know。〃

〃And who is the man on the other side of you?〃 said I。

〃I believe he is an English dealer in gigs and horses;〃 replied 
Jones; 〃and that he is come here either to buy or sell。〃

The man; however; soon put me out of all doubt with respect to his 
profession。

〃I was at Chirk;〃 said he; 〃and Mr So…and…so asked me to have a 
look at his new gig and horse; and have a ride。  I consented。  They 
were both brought out … everything new; gig new; harness new; and 
horse new。  Mr So…and…so asked me what I thought of his turn…out。  
I gave a look and said; 'I like the car very well; harness very 
well; but I don't like the horse at all; a regular bolter; rearer 
and kicker; or I'm no judge; moreover; he's pigeon…toed。'  However; 
we all got on the car … four of us; and I was of course 
complimented with the ribbons。  Well; we hadn't gone fifty yards 
before the horse; to make my words partly good; began to kick like 
a new 'un。  However; I managed him; and he went on for a couple of 
miles till we got to the top of the hill; just above the descent 
with the precipice on the right hand。  Here he began to rear like a 
very devil。

〃'Oh dear me!' says Mr So…and…so; 'let me get out!'

〃'Keep where you are;' says I; 'I can manage him。'

〃However; Mr So…and…so would not be ruled; and got out; coming 
down; not on his legs; but his hands and knees。  And then the two 
others said …

〃'Let us get out!'

〃'Keep where you are;' said I; 'I can manage him。'

〃But they must needs get out; or rather tumble out; for they both 
came down on the road; hard on their backs。

〃'Get out yourself;' said they all; 'and let the devil go; or you 
are a done man。'

〃'Getting out may do for you young hands;' says I; 'but it won't do 
for I; neither my back nor bones will stand the hard road。'

〃Mr So…and…so ran to the horse's head。

〃'Are you mad?' says I; 'if you try to hold him he'll be over the 
pree…si…pice in a twinkling; and then where am I?  Give him head; I 
can manage him。'

〃So Mr So…and…so got out of the way; and down flew the horse right 
down the descent; as fast as he could gallop。  I tell you what; I 
didn't half like it!  A pree…si…pice on my right; the rock on my 
left; and a devil before me; going; like a cannon…ball; right down 
the hill。  However; I contrived; as I said I would; to manage him; 
kept the car from the rock and from the edge of the gulf too。  
Well; just when we had come to the bottom of the hill out comes the 
people running from the inn; almost covering the road。

〃'Now get out of the way;' I shouts; 'if you don't wish to see your 
brains knocked out; and what would be worse; mine too。'

〃So they gets out of the way; and on I spun; I and my devil。  But 
by this time I had nearly taken the devil out of him。  Well; he 
hadn't gone fifty yards on the level ground; when; what do you 
think he did? why; went regularly over; tumbled down regularly on 
the road; even as I knew he would some time or other; because why? 
he was pigeon…toed。  Well; I gets out of the gig; and no sooner did 
Mr So…and…so come up than I says …

〃'I likes your car very well; and I likes your harness; but … me if 
I likes your horse; and it will be some time before you persuade me 
to drive him again。'〃

I am a great lover of horses; and an admirer of good driving; and 
should have wished to have some conversation with this worthy 
person about horses and their management。  I should also have 
wished to ask him some questions about Wales and the Welsh; as he 
must have picked up a great deal of curious information about both 
in his forty years' traffic; notwithstanding he did not know a word 
of Welsh; but John Jones prevented my further tarrying by saying; 
that it would be as well to get over the mountain before it was 
entirely dark。  So I got up; paid for my ale; vainly endeavoured to 
pay for that of my companion; who insisted upon paying for what he 
had ordered; made a general bow and departed from the house; 
leaving the horse…dealer and the rest staring at each other and 
wondering who we were; or at least who I was。  We were about to 
ascend the hill when John Jones asked me whether I should not like 
to see the bridge and the river。  I told him I should。  The bridge 
and the river presented nothing remarkable。  The former was of a 
single arch; and the latter anything but abundant in its flow。

We now began to retrace our steps over the mountain。  At first the 
mist appeared to be nearly cleared away。  As we proceeded; however; 
large sheets began to roll up the mountain sides; and by the time 
we reached the summit were completely shrouded in vapour。  The 
night; however; was not very dark; and we found our way tolerably 
well; though once in descending I had nearly tumbled into the nant 
or dingle; now on our left hand。  The bushes and trees; seen 
indistinctly through the mist; had something the look of goblins; 
and brought to my mind the elves; which Ab Gwilym of old saw; or 
thought he saw; in a somewhat similar situation:…


〃In every hollow dingle stood
Of wry…mouth'd elves a wrathful brood。〃


Drenched to the skin; but uninjured in body and limb; we at length 
reached Llangollen。



CHAPTER XVIII



Venerable Old Gentleman … Surnames in Wales … Russia and Britain … 
Church of England … Yriarte … The Eagle and his Young … Poets of 
the Gael … The Oxonian … Master Salisburie。


MY wife had told me that she had had some conversation upon the 
Welsh language and literature with a venerable old man; who kept a 
shop in the town; that she had informed him that I was very fond of 
both; and that he had expressed a great desire to see me。  One 
afternoon I said:  〃Let us go and pay a visit to your old friend of 
the shop。  I think from two or three things which you have told me 
about him; that he must be worth knowing。〃  We set out。  She 
conducted me across the bridge a little way; then presently turning 
to the left into the principal street; she entered the door of a 
shop on the left…hand side; over the top of which was written:  
〃Jones; Provision Dealer and General Merchant。〃  The shop was 
small; with two little counters; one on each side。  Behind one was 
a young woman; and behind the other a venerable…looking old man。

〃I have brought my husband to visit you;〃 said my wife; addressing 
herself to him。

〃I am most happy to see him;〃 said the old gentleman; making me a 
polite bow。

He then begged that we would do him the honour to walk into his 
parlour; and led us into a little back room; the window of which 
looked out upon the Dee a few yards below the bridge。  On the left 
side of the room was a large case; well stored with books。  He 
offered us chairs; and we all sat down。  I was much struck with the 
old man。  He was rather tall; and somewhat inclined to corpulency。  
His hair was grey; his forehead high; his nose aquiline; his eyes 
full of intelligence; whilst his manners were those of a perfect 
gentlem

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