wild wales-第64章
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difficulty in question； and informed him that I was determined to
follow his advice。 He hurried away； and presently returned with
his nephew； to whom I offered half…a…crown provided he would show
me all about Pen Caer Gyby。 He accepted my offer with evident
satisfaction； and we lost no time in setting out upon our
expedition。
We had to pass over a great deal of broken ground； sometimes
ascending； sometimes descending； before we found ourselves upon the
side of what may actually be called the headland。 Shaping our
course westward we came to the vicinity of a lighthouse standing on
the verge of a precipice； the foot of which was washed by the sea。
Leaving the lighthouse on our right we followed a steep winding
path which at last brought us to the top of the pen or summit；
rising； according to the judgment which I formed； about six hundred
feet from the surface of the sea。 Here was a level spot some
twenty yards across； in the middle of which stood a heap of stones
or cairn。 I asked the lad whether this cairn bore a name； and
received for answer that it was generally called Bar…cluder y Cawr
Glas； words which seem to signify the top heap of the Grey Giant。
〃Some king； giant； or man of old renown lies buried beneath this
cairn；〃 said I。 〃Whoever he may be； I trust he will excuse me for
mounting it； seeing that I do so with no disrespectful spirit。〃 I
then mounted the cairn； exclaiming：…
〃Who lies 'neath the cairn on the headland hoar；
His hand yet holding his broad claymore；
Is it Beli； the son of Benlli Gawr？〃
There stood I on the cairn of the Grey Giant； looking around me。
The prospect； on every side； was noble： the blue interminable sea
to the west and north； the whole stretch of Mona to the east； and
far away to the south the mountainous region of Eryri； comprising
some of the most romantic hills in the world。 In some respects
this Pen Santaidd； this holy headland； reminded me of Finisterrae；
the Gallegan promontory which I had ascended some seventeen years
before； whilst engaged in battling the Pope with the sword of the
gospel in his favourite territory。 Both are bold； bluff headlands
looking to the west； both have huge rocks in their vicinity； rising
from the bosom of the brine。 For a time； as I stood on the cairn；
I almost imagined myself on the Gallegan hill； much the same
scenery presented itself as there； and a sun equally fierce struck
upon my head as that which assailed it on the Gallegan hill。 For a
time all my thoughts were of Spain。 It was not long； however；
before I bethought me that my lot was now in a different region；
that I had done with Spain for ever； after doing for her all that
lay in the power of a lone man； who had never in this world
anything to depend upon； but God and his own slight strength。 Yes；
I had done with Spain； and was now in Wales； and； after a slight
sigh； my thoughts became all intensely Welsh。 I thought on the old
times when Mona was the grand seat of Druidical superstition； when
adoration was paid to Dwy Fawr； and Dwy Fach； the sole survivors of
the apocryphal Deluge； to Hu the Mighty and his plough； to Ceridwen
and her cauldron； to Andras the Horrible； to Wyn ab Nudd； Lord of
Unknown； and to Beli； Emperor of the Sun。 I thought on the times
when the Beal fire blazed on this height； on the neighbouring
promontory； on the cope…stone of Eryri； and on every high hill
throughout Britain on the eve of the first of May。 I thought on
the day when the bands of Suetonius crossed the Menai strait in
their broad…bottomed boats； fell upon the Druids and their
followers； who with wild looks and brandished torches lined the
shore； slew hundreds with merciless butchery upon the plains； and
pursued the remainder to the remotest fastnesses of the isle。 I
figured to myself long…bearded men with white vestments toiling up
the rocks； followed by fierce warriors with glittering helms and
short broad two…edged swords； I thought I heard groans； cries of
rage； and the dull； awful sound of bodies precipitated down rocks。
Then as I looked towards the sea I thought I saw the fleet of
Gryffith Ab Cynan steering from Ireland to Aber Menai； Gryffith；
the son of a fugitive king； born in Ireland； in the Commot of
Columbcille； Gryffith the frequently baffled； the often victorious；
once a manacled prisoner sweating in the sun； in the market…place
of Chester； eventually king of North Wales； Gryffith； who 〃though
he loved well the trumpet's clang loved the sound of the harp
better〃； who led on his warriors to twenty…four battles； and
presided over the composition of the twenty…four measures of
Cambrian song。 Then I thought …。 But I should tire the reader
were I to detail all the intensely Welsh thoughts which crowded
into my head as I stood on the Cairn of the Grey Giant。
Satiated with looking about and thinking； I sprang from the cairn
and rejoined my guide。 We now descended the eastern side of the
hill till we came to a singular looking stone； which had much the
appearance of a Druid's stone。 I inquired of my guide whether
there was any tale connected with this stone。
〃None；〃 he replied； 〃but I have heard people say that it was a
strange stone； and on that account I brought you to look at it。〃
A little farther down he showed me part of a ruined wall。
〃What name does this bear？〃 said I。
〃Clawdd yr Afalon；〃 he replied。 〃The dyke of the orchard。〃
〃A strange place for an orchard；〃 I replied。 〃If there was ever an
orchard on this bleak hill； the apples must have been very sour。〃
Over rocks and stones we descended till we found ourselves on a
road； not very far from the shore； on the south…east side of the
hill。
〃I am very thirsty；〃 said I； as I wiped the perspiration from my
face； 〃how I should like now to drink my fill of cool spring
water。〃
〃If your honour is inclined for water；〃 said my guide； 〃I can take
you to the finest spring in all Wales。〃
〃Pray do so；〃 said I； 〃for I really am dying of thirst。〃
〃It is on our way to the town；〃 said the lad； 〃and is scarcely a
hundred yards off。〃
He then led me to the fountain。 It was a little well under a stone
wall； on the left side of the way。 It might be about two feet
deep； was fenced with rude stones； and had a bottom of sand。
〃There；〃 said the lad； 〃is the fountain。 It is called the Fairies'
Well； and contains the best water in Wales。〃
I lay down and drank。 Oh； what water was that of the Fairies'
Well！ I drank and drank； and thought I could never drink enough of
that delicious water； the lad all the time saying that I need not
be afraid to drink； as the water of the Fairies' Well had never
done harm to anybody。 At length I got up； and standing by the
fountain repeated the lines of a bard on a spring； not of a Welsh
but a Gaelic bard； which are perhaps the finest lines ever composed
on the theme。 Yet MacIntyre； for such was his name； was like
myself an admirer of good ale； to say nothing of whiskey； and loved
to indulge in it at a proper time and place。 But there is a time
and place for everything； and sometimes the warmest admirer of ale
would prefer the lymph of the hill…side fountain to the choicest
ale that ever foamed in tankard from the cellars of Holkham。 Here
are the lines most faithfully rendered：…
〃The wild wine of nature；
Honey…like in its taste；
The genial； fair； thin element
Filtering through the sands；
Which is sweeter than cinnamon；
And is well known to us hunters。
O； that eternal； healing draught；
Which comes from under the earth；
Which contains abundance of good
And costs no money！〃
Returning to the hotel I satisfied my guide and dined。 After
dinner I trifled agreeably with my brandy…and…water till it was
near seven o'clock； when I paid my bill； thought of the waiter and
did not forget Father Boots。 I then took my departure； receiving
and returning bows； and walking to the station got into a first…
class carriage and soon found myself at Bangor。
CHAPTER XLIII
The Inn at Bangor … Port Dyn Norwig … Sea Serpent … Thoroughly
Welsh Place … Blessin
