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the ways of men(繁断議返粁)-及42嫗

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recognizes   the   music   of   Mireille   sung   by   these   pilgrims   to   an   artistic 

Mecca�察�where a miracle is to be performed ´ and classic art called forth 

from its winding´ sheet。 

     The population of a whole region is astir under the ardent Provencal 

sun�察  �to   witness   a   resurrection   of   the   Drama   in   the   historic   valley  of   the 

Rhone�察�through whose channel the civilization and art and culture of the 

old world floated up into Europe to the ceaseless cry of the CIGALES。 

     Chateaurenard� �our water journey is ended。 Through the leafy avenues 

that lead to Orange�察�we see the arch of Marius and the gigantic proscenium 

of the theatre�察�rising above the roofs of the little city。 

     So few of our compatriots linger in the south of France after the spring 

has set in�察�or wander in the by´ways of that inexhaustible country�察�that a 

word      about    the   representations      at   Orange     may     be   of  interest�察   �and 

perchance   create   a   desire   to   see   the   masterpieces   of   classic   drama   ��the 

common inheritance of all civilized races�� revived with us�察�and our stage 

put to its legitimate use�察�cultivating and elevating the taste of the people。 

     One would so gladly see a little of the money that is generously given 

for music used to revive in America a love for the classic drama。 

     We are certainly not inferior to our neighbors in culture or appreciation�察�

and   yet   such   a   performance   as   I   witnessed   at   Orange   ��laying   aside   the 

enchantment lent by the surroundings�� would not be possible here。 Why�拭�

But to return to my narrative。 



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     The sun is setting as we toil�察�ticket in hand�察�up the Roman stairway to 

the upper rows of seats�察�far below the local GENDARMERIE who mostly 

understand their orders backwards are struggling with the throng�察�whose 

entrance   they  are   apparently  obstructing   by  every   means   in   their   power。 

Once seated�察�and having a wait of an hour before us�察�we amused ourselves 

watching   the   crowd   filling   in   every   corner   of   the   vast   building�察  �like   a 

rising tide of multi´colored water。 

     We     had   purposely   chosen       places   on   the   highest    and   most    remote 

benches�察  �to   test   the   vaunted   acoustic   qualities   of   the   auditorium�察  �and   to 

obtain a view of the half´circle of humanity�察�the gigantic wall back of the 

stage�察�and the surrounding country。 

     As day softened into twilight�察�and twilight deepened into a luminous 

Southern   night�察  �the   effect   was   incomparable。   The   belfries   and   roofs   of 

mediaeval Orange rose in the clear air�察�overtopping the half ruined theatre 

in many places。 The arch of Marius gleamed white against the surrounding 

hills�察�themselves violet and purple in the sunset�察�their shadow broken here 

and there by the outline of a crumbling chateau or the lights of a village。 

     Behind   us   the   sentries   paced   along   the   wall�察  �wrapped   in   their   dark 

cloaks�察  �and   over   all   the   scene�察  �one   snowtopped   peak   rose   white   on   the 

horizon�察�like some classic virgin assisting at an Olympian solemnity。 

     On the stage�察�partly cleared of the debris of fifteen hundred years�察�trees 

had been left where they had grown�察�among fallen columns�察�fragments of 

capital   and   statue�察  �near   the   front   a   superb   rose´laurel   recalled   the   Attic 

shores。 To the right�察�wild grasses and herbs alternated with thick shrubbery�察�

among which Orestes hid later�察�during the lamentations of his sister。 To the 

left a gigantic fig´tree�察�growing again the dark wall�察�threw its branches far 

out over the stage。 

     It was from behind its foliage that ;Gaul�察─ �Provence�察─�and ;France�察─�

personated by three actresses of the ;Francais�察─�advanced to salute Apollo�察�

seated on his rustic throne�察�in the prologue which began the performance。 

     Since midday the weather had been threatening。 At seven o'clock there 

was almost a shower ´ a moment of terrible anxiety。 What a misfortune if 

it   should   rain�察  �just   as   the   actors   were   to   appear�察  �here�察  �where   it   had   not 

rained     for  nearly    four   months�     �My    right´hand      neighbor�察   �a   citizen   of 



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Beaucaire�察�assures me�察 �It will be nothing�察�only a strong `mistral' for to´ 

morrow。;       An    electrician    is   putting    the    finishing    touches     to   his 

arrangements。 He tries vainly to concentrate some light on the box where 

the committee is to sit�察�which is screened by a bit of crumbling wall�察�but 

finally gives it up。 

     Suddenly the bugles sound�察�the orchestra rings out the Marseillaise�察�it 

is eight o'clock。 The sky is wild and threatening。 An unseen hand strikes 

the three traditional blows。 The Faun Lybrian slips down from a branch of 

a great elm�察�and throws himself on the steps that later are to represent the 

entrance to the palace of Agamemnon�察�and commences the prologue ��an 

invocation to Apollo���察�in the midst of such confusion that we hear hardly a 

word。 Little by little�察�however�察�the crowd quiets down�察�and I catch Louis 

Gallet's   fine   lines�察  �marvellously   phrased   by   Mesdames   Bartet�察  �Dudlay�察�

Moreno�察�and the handsome Fenoux as Apollo。 

     The   real   interest   of   the   public   is   only   aroused�察  �however�察  �when   THE 

ERYNNIES          begins。    This    powerful     adaptation     from    the   tragedy    of 

AEschylus is THE CHEF D'OEUVRE of Leconte de Lisle。 The silence is 

now     complete。    One    feels  in  the   air  that  the  moment     so   long   and   so 

anxiously   awaited   has   come�察  �that   a   great   event   is   about   to   take   place。 

Every   eye   is   fixed   on   the   stage�察  �waiting   to   see   what   will   appear   from 

behind the dark arches of the proscenium。 A faint�察�plaintive strain of music 

floats out on the silence。 Demons crawl among the leafy shadows。 Not a 

light is visible�察�yet the centre of the stage is in strong relief�察�shading off 

into a thousand fantastic shadows。 The audience sits in complete darkness。 

Then we see the people of Argos�察�winding toward us from among the trees�察�

lamenting�察�as they have done each day for ten years�察�the long absence of 

their sons and their king。 The old men no longer dare to consult the oracles�察�

fearing to learn that all is lost。 The beauty of this lament roused the first 

murmur   of   applause�察  �each   word�察  �each   syllable�察  �chiming   out   across   that 

vast semicircle with a clearness and an effect impossible to describe。 

     Now it is the sentinel�察�who from his watch´tower has caught the first 

glimpse of the returning army。 We hear him dashing like a torrent down 

the turret stair�察�at the doorway�察�his garments blown by the wind�察�his body 

bending forward in a splendid pose of joy and exultation�察�he announces in 



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a voice of thunder the arrival of the king。 

     So completely are the twenty thousand spectators under the spell of the 

drama that at this news one can feel a thrill pass over the throng�察�whom the 

splendid verses hold palpitating under their charm�察�awaiting only the end 

of the tirade to break into applause。 

     From that moment the performance is one long triumph。 Clytemnestra 

��Madame Lerou�� comes with her suite to receive the king ��Mounet´Sully���察�

the conqueror� �I never realized before all the perfection that training can 

give the speaking voice。 Each syllable seemed to ring out with a bell´like 

clearness。 As she gradually rose in the last act to the scene

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