the complete writings-2-第20章

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thic　spire　grows　up　and　around　these；　now　and　then　throwing　out　graceful　tendrils；　like　a　vine；　and　seeming　to　be　rather　a　living　plant　than　inanimate　stone。　　The　faithful　artist　evidently　had　this　feeling　for　it；　for；　as　it　grew　under　his　hands；　he　found　that　it　would　strike　the　roof；　or　he　must　sacrifice　something　of　its　graceful　proportion。　So　his　loving　and　daring　genius　suggested　the　happy　design　of　letting　it　grow　to　its　curving；　graceful　completeness。

He　who　travels　by　a　German　railway　needs　patience　and　a　full　haversack。　　Time　is　of　no　value。　　The　rate　of　speed　of　the　trains　is　so　slow；　that　one　sometimes　has　a　desire　to　get　out　and　walk；　and　the　stoppages　at　the　stations　seem　eternal；　but　then　we　must　remember　that　it　is　a　long　distance　to　the　bottom　of　a　great　mug　of　beer。　　We　left　Lindau　on　one　of　the　usual　trains　at　half…past　five　in　the　morning；　and　reached　Augsburg　at　one　o'clock　in　the　afternoon：　the　distance　cannot　be　more　than　a　hundred　miles。　　That　is　quicker　than　by　diligence；　and　one　has　leisure　to　see　the　country　as　he　jogs　along。　　There　is　nothing　more　sedate　than　a　German　train　in　motion；　nothing　can　stand　so　dead　still　as　a　German　train　at　a　station。　　But　there　are　express　trains。

We　were　on　one　from　Augsburg　to　Nuremberg；　and　I　think　must　have　run　twenty　miles　an　hour。　　The　fare　on　the　express　trains　is　one　fifth　higher　than　on　the　others。　　The　cars　are　all　comfortable；　and　the　officials；　who　wear　a　good　deal　of　uniform；　are　much　more　civil　and　obliging　than　officials　in　a　country　where　they　do　not　wear　uniforms。　So；　not　swiftly；　but　safely　and　in　good…humor；　we　rode　to　the　capital　of　Bavaria。




OUTSIDE　ASPECTS　OF　MUNICH

I　saw　yesterday；　on　the　31st　of　August；　in　the　English　Garden；　dead　leaves　whirling　down　to　the　ground；　a　too　evident　sign　that　the　summer　weather　is　going。　　Indeed；　it　has　been　sour；　chilly　weather　for　a　week　now；　raining　a　little　every　day；　and　with　a　very　autumn　feeling　in　the　air。　　The　nightly　concerts　in　the　beer…gardens　must　have　shivering　listeners；　if　the　bands　do　not；　as　many　of　them　do；　play　within　doors。　　The　line　of　droschke　drivers；　in　front　of　the　post…office　colonnade；　hide　the　red　facings　of　their　coats　under　long　overcoats；　and　stand　in　cold　expectancy　beside　their　blanketed　horses；　which　must　need　twice　the　quantity　of　black…bread　in　this　chilly　air；　for　the　horses　here　eat　bread；　like　people。　　I　see　the　drivers　every　day　slicing　up　the　black　loaves；　and　feeding　them；　taking　now　and　then　a　mouthful　themselves；　wetting　it　down　with　a　pull　from　the　mug　of　beer　that　stands　within　reach。　　And　lastly　（I　am　still　speaking　of　the　weather）；　the　gay　military　officers　come　abroad　in　long　cloaks；　to　some　extent　concealing　their　manly　forms　and　smart　uniforms；　which　I　am　sure　they　would　not　do；　except　under　the　pressure　of　necessity。

Yet　I　think　this　raw　weather　is　not　to　continue。　　It　is　only　a　rough　visit　from　the　Tyrol；　which　will　give　place　to　kinder　influences。　　We　came　up　here　from　hot　Switzerland　at　the　end　of　July；　expecting　to　find　Munich　a　furnace。　　It　will　be　dreadful　in　Munich　everybody　said。　So　we　left　Luzerne；　where　it　was　warm；　not　daring　to　stay　till　the　expected　rival　sun；　Victoria　of　England；　should　make　the　heat　overpowering。　　But　the　first　week　of　August　in　Munich　it　was　delicious　weather；clear；　sparkling；　bracing　air；　with　no　chill　in　it　and　no　languor　in　it；　just　as　you　would　say　it　ought　to　be　on　a　high；　gravelly　plain；　seventeen　hundred　feet　above　the　sea。　　Then　came　a　week　of　what　the　Muncheners　call　hot　weather；　with　the　thermometer　up　to　eighty　degrees　Fahrenheit；　and　the　white　wide　streets　and　gray　buildings　in　a　glare　of　light；　since　then；　weather　of　the　most　uncertain　sort。

Munich　needs　the　sunlight。　　Not　that　it　cannot　better　spare　it　than　grimy　London；　for　its　prevailing　color　is　light　gray；　and　its　many…tinted　and　frescoed　fronts　go　far　to　relieve　the　most　cheerless　day。　　Yet　Munich　attempts　to　be　an　architectural　reproduction　of　classic　times；　and；　in　order　to　achieve　any　success　in　this　direction；　it　is　necessary　to　have　the　blue　heavens　and　golden　sunshine　of　Greece。　　The　old　portion　of　the　city　has　some　remains　of　the　Gothic；　and　abounds　in　archways　and　rambling　alleys；　that　suddenly　become　broad　streets　and　then　again　contract　to　the　width　of　an　alderman；　and　portions　of　the　old　wall　and　city　gates；　old　feudal　towers　stand　in　the　market…place；　and　faded　frescoes　on　old　clock…faces　and　over　archways　speak　of　other　days　of　splendor。

But　the　Munich　of　to…day　is　as　if　built　to　order；raised　in　a　day　by　the　command　of　one　man。　　It　was　the　old　King　Ludwig　I。；　whose　flower…wreathed　bust　stands　in　these　days　in　the　vestibule　of　the　Glyptothek；　in　token　of　his　recent　death；　who　gave　the　impulse　for　all　this；　though　some　of　the　best　buildings　and　streets　in　the　city　have　been　completed　by　his　successors。　　The　new　city　is　laid　out　on　a　magnificent　scale　of　distances；　with　wide　streets；　fine；　open　squares；　plenty　of　room　for　gardens；　both　public　and　private；　and　the　art　buildings　and　art　monuments　are　well　distributed；　in　fact；　many　a　stately　building　stands　in　such　isolation　that　it　seems　to　ask　every　passer　what　it　was　put　there　for。　　Then；　again；　some　of　the　new　adornments　lack　fitness　of　location　or　purpose。　　At　the　end　of　the　broad；　monotonous　Ludwig　Strasse；　and　yet　not　at　the　end；　for　the　road　runs　straight　on　into　the　flat　country　between　rows　of　slender　trees；　stands　the　Siegesthor；　or　Gate　of　Victory；　an　imitation　of　the　Constantine　arch　at　Rome。　　It　is　surmounted　by　a　splendid　group　in　bronze；　by　Schwanthaler；　Bavaria　in　her　war…chariot；　drawn　by　four　lions；　and　it　is　in　itself；　both　in　its　proportions　and　its　numerous　sculptural　figures　and　bas…reliefs；　a　fine　recognition　of　the　valor　〃of　the　Bavarian　army；〃　to　whom　it　is　erected。　　Yet　it　is　so　dwarfed　by　its　situation；　that　it　seems　to　have　been　placed　in　the　middle　of　the　street　as　an　obstruction。　　A　walk　runs　on　each　side　of　it。　　The　Propylaeum；　another　magnificent　gateway；　thrown　across　the　handsome　Brienner　Strasse；　beyond　the　Glyptothek；　is　an　imitation　of　that　on　the　Acropolis　at　Athens。　　It　has　fine　Doric　columns　on　the　outside；　and　Ionic　within；　and　the　pediment　groups　are　bas…reliefs；　by　Schwanthaler；　representing　scenes　in　modern　Greek　history。　　The　passageways　for　carriages　are　through　the　side　arches；　and　thus　the　〃sidewalk〃　runs　into　the　center　of　the　street；　and　foot…passers　must　twice　cross　the　carriage…drive　in　going　through　the　gate。　　Such　things　as　these　give　one　the　feeling　that　art　has　been　forced　beyond　use　in　Munich；　and　it　is　increased　when　one　wanders　through　the　new　churches；　palaces；　galleries；　and　finds　frescoes　so　prodigally　crowded　out　of　the　way；　and　only　occasionally　opened　rooms　so　overloaded　with　them；　and　not　always　of　the　best；　as　to　sacrifice　all　effect；　and　leave　one　with　the　sense　that　some　demon　of　unrest　has　driven　painters　and　sculptors　and　plasterers；　night　and　day；　to　adorn　the　city　at　a　stroke；　at　least；　to　cover　it　with　paint　and　bedeck　it　with　marbles；　and　to　do　it　at　once；　leaving　nothing　for　the　sweet　growth　and　blossoming　of　time。

You　see；　it　is　easy　to　grumble；　and　especially　in　a　cheerful；　open；　light；　and　smiling　city；　crammed　with　works　Of　art；　ancient　and　modern；　its　architecture　a　study　of　all　styles；　and　its　foaming　beer；　said　by　antiquarians　to　be　a　good　deal　better　than　the　mead　drunk　in　Odin's　halls；　only　seven　and　a　half　kreuzers　the　quart。　　Munich　has　so　much；　that　it；　of　course；　contains　much　that　can　be　criticised。　The　long；　wide　Ludwig　Strasse　is　a　street　of　palaces；a　street　built　up　by　the　old　king；　and　regarded　by　him　with　great　pride。　　But　all　the　buildings　are　in　the　Romanesque　style；a　repetition　of　one　another　to　a　monotonous　degree：　only　at　the　lower　end　are　there　any　shops　or　shop…windows；　and　a　more　dreary　promenade　need　not　be　imagined。　　It　has　neither　shade　nor　fountains；　and　on　a　hot　day　you　can　see　how　the　sun　would　pour　into　it；　and　blind　the　passers。　　But　few　ever　walk　there　at　any　time。　　A　street　that　leads　nowhere；　and　has　no　gay　windows；　does　not　attract。　　Toward　the　lower　end；　in　the　Odeon　Platz；　is　the　equestrian　statue　of　Ludwig；　a　royally　commanding　figure；　with　a　page　on　either　side。　　The