the complete writings-2-第24章

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al　city　gate。　　The　gate　is　double；　with　flanking　octagonal　towers；　inclosing　a　quadrangle。　　Upon　the　inner　wall　is　a　fresco　of　〃The　Crucifixion。〃　Over　the　outer　front　is　a　representation；　in　fresco　painting；　of　the　triumphal　entry　into　the　city　of　the　Emperor　Louis　of　Bavaria　after　the　battle　of　Ampfing。　On　one　side　of　the　gate　is　a　portrait　of　the　Virgin；　on　gold　ground；　and　on　the　other　a　very　passable　one　of　the　late　Dr。　Hawes　of　Hartford；　with　a　Pope's　hat　on。　　Walking　on；　I　came　to　another　arched　gateway　and　clock…tower；　near　it　an　old　church；　with　a　high　wall　adjoining；　whereon　is　a　fresco　of　cattle　led　to　slaughter；　showing　that　I　am　in　the　vicinity　of　the　Victual　Market；　and　I　enter　it　through　a　narrow；　crooked　alley。　　There　is　nothing　there　but　an　assemblage　of　shabby　booths　and　fruit…stands；　and　an　ancient　stone　tower　in　ruins　and　overgrown　with　ivy。

Leaving　this；　I　came　out　to　the　Marian　Platz；　where　stands　the　column；　with　the　statue　of　the　Virgin　and　Child；　set　up　by　Maximilian　I。　in　1638　to　celebrate　the　victory　in　the　battle　which　established　the　Catholic　supremacy　in　Bavaria。　　It　is　a　favorite　praying…place　for　the　lower　classes。　　Yesterday　was　a　fete　day；　and　the　base　of　the　column　and　half　its　height　are　lost　in　a　mass　of　flowers　and　evergreens。　　In　front　is　erected　an　altar　with　a　broad；　carpeted　platform；　and　a　strip　of　the　platz　before　it　is　inclosed　with　a　railing；　within　which　are　praying…benches。　　The　sun　shines　down　hot；　but　there　are　several　poor　women　kneeling　there；　with　their　baskets　beside　them。　　I　happen　along　there　at　sundown；　and　there　are　a　score　of　women　kneeling　on　the　hard　stones；　outside　the　railing　saying　their　prayers　in　loud　voices。　　The　mass　of　flowers　is　still　sweet　and　gay　and　fresh；　a　fountain　with　fantastic　figures　is　flashing　near　by；　the　crowd；　going　home　to　supper　and　beer；　gives　no　heed　to　the　praying；　the　stolid　droschke…drivers　stand　listlessly　by。　　At　the　head　of　the　square　is　an　artillery　station；　and　a　row　of　cannon　frowns　on　it。　　On　one　side　is　a　house　with　a　tablet　in　the　wall；　recording　the　fact　that　Gustavus　Adolphus　of　Sweden　once　lived　in　it。

When　we　came　to　Munich；　the　great　annual　fair　was　in　progress；　and　the　large　Maximilian　Platz　（not　to　be　confounded　with　the　street　of　that　name）　was　filled　with　booths　of　cheap　merchandise；　puppet…shows；　lottery　shanties；　and　all　sorts　of　popular　amusements。　　It　was　a　fine　time　to　study　peasant　costumes。　　The　city　was　crowded　with　them　on　Sunday；　and　let　us　not　forget　that　the　first　visit　of　the　peasants　was　to　the　churches；　they　invariably　attended　early　mass　before　they　set　out　upon　the　day's　pleasure。　　Most　of　the　churches　have　services　at　all　hours　till　noon；　some　of　them　with　fine　classical　and　military　music。　　One　could　not　but　be　struck　with　the　devotional　manner　of　the　simple　women；　in　their　queer　costumes；　who　walked　into　the　gaudy　edifices；　were　absorbed　in　their　prayers　for　an　hour；　and　then　went　away。　　I　suppose　they　did　not　know　how　odd　they　looked　in　their　high；　round　fur　hats；　or　their　fantastic　old　ornaments；　nor　that　there　was　anything　amiss　in　bringing　their　big　baskets　into　church　with　them。　At　least；　their　simple；　unconscious　manner　was　better　than　that　of　many　of　the　city　people；　some　of　whom　stare　about　a　good　deal；　while　going　through　the　service；　and　stop　in　the　midst　of　crossings　and　genuflections　to　take　snuff　and　pass　it　to　their　neighbors。　　But　there　are　always　present　simple　and　homelike　sort　of　people；　who　neither　follow　the　fashions　nor　look　round　on　them；　respectable；　neat　old　ladies；　in　the　faded　and　carefully　preserved　silk　gowns；　such　as　the　New　England　women　wear　to　〃meeting。〃

No　one　can　help　admiring　the　simplicity；　kindliness；　and　honesty　of　the　Germans。　　The　universal　courtesy　and　friendliness　of　manner　have　a　very　different　seeming　from　the　politeness　of　the　French。　　At　the　hotels　in　the　country；　the　landlord　and　his　wife　and　the　servant　join　in　hoping　you　will　sleep　well　when　you　go　to　bed。　　The　little　maid　at　Heidelberg　who　served　our　meals　always　went　to　the　extent　of　wishing　us　a　good　appetite　when　she　had　brought　in　the　dinner。　　Here　in　Munich　the　people　we　have　occasion　to　address　in　the　street　are　uniformly　courteous。　　The　shop…keepers　are　obliging；　and　rarely　servile；　like　the　English。　　You　are　thanked；　and　punctiliously　wished　the　good…day；　whether　you　purchase　anything　or　not。　　In　shops　tended　by　women；　gentlemen　invariably　remove　their　hats。　　If　you　buy　only　a　kreuzer's　worth　of　fruit　of　an　old　woman；　she　says　words　that　would　be；　literally　translated；　〃I　thank　you　beautifully。〃　　With　all　this；　one　looks　kindly　on　the　childish　love　the　Germans　have　for　titles。　It　is；　I　believe；　difficult　for　the　German　mind　to　comprehend　that　we　can　be　in　good　standing　at　home；　unless　we　have　some　title　prefixed　to　our　names；　or　some　descriptive　phrase　added。　　Our　good　landlord；　who　waits　at　the　table　and　answers　our　bell；　one　of　whose　tenants　is　a　living　baron；　having　no　title　to　put　on　his　doorplate　under　that　of　the　baron；　must　needs　dub　himself　〃privatier；〃　and　he　insists　upon　prefixing　the　name　of　this　unambitious　writer　with　the　ennobling　von；　and　at　the　least　he　insists；　in　common　with　the　tradespeople；　that　I　am　a　〃Herr　Doctor。〃　　The　bills　of　purchases　by　madame　come　made　out　to　〃Frau；　well…born。〃　　At　a　hotel　in　Heidelberg；　where　I　had　registered　my　name　with　that　distinctness　of　penmanship　for　which　newspaper　men　are　justly　conspicuous；　and　had　added　to　my　own　name　〃&　wife；〃　I　was　not　a　little　flattered　to　appear　in　the　reckoning　as　〃Herr　Doctor　Mamesweise。〃




THE　GOTTESACKER　AND　BAVARIAN　FUNERALS

To　change　the　subject　from　gay　to　grave。　　The　Gottesacker　of　Munich　is　called　the　finest　cemetery　in　Germany；　at　least；　it　surpasses　them　in　the　artistic　taste　of　its　monuments。　　Natural　beauty　it　has　none：　it　is　simply　a　long；　narrow　strip　of　ground　inclosed　in　walls；　with　straight；　parallel　walks　running　the　whole　length；　and　narrow　cross…walks；　and　yet　it　is　a　lovely　burial…ground。　　There　are　but　few　trees；　but　the　whole　inclosure　is　a　conservatory　of　beautiful　flowers。　　Every　grave　is　covered　with　them；　every　monument　is　surrounded　with　them。　　The　monuments　are　unpretending　in　size；　but　there　are　many　fine　designs；　and　many　finely　executed　busts　and　statues　and　allegorical　figures；　in　both　marble　and　bronze。　　The　place　is　full　of　sunlight　and　color。　　I　noticed　that　it　was　much　frequented。　　In　front　of　every　place　of　sepulcher　stands　a　small　urn　for　water；　with　a　brush　hanging　by；　with　which　to　sprinkle　the　flowers。　　I　saw；　also；　many　women　and　children　coming　and　going　with　watering…pots；　so　that　the　flowers　never　droop　for　want　of　care。　　At　the　lower　end　of　the　old　ground　is　an　open　arcade；　wherein　are　some　effigies　and　busts；　and　many　ancient　tablets　set　into　the　wall。　Beyond　this　is　the　new　cemetery；　an　inclosure　surrounded　by　a　high　wall　of　brick；　and　on　the　inside　by　an　arcade。　　The　space　within　is　planted　with　flowers；　and　laid　out　for　the　burial　of　the　people；　the　arcades　are　devoted　to　the　occupation　of　those　who　can　afford　costly　tombs。　　Only　a　small　number　of　them　are　yet　occupied；　there　are　some　good　busts　and　monuments；　and　some　frescoes　on　the　panels　rather　more　striking　for　size　and　color　than　for　beauty。

Between　the　two　cemeteries　is　the　house　for　the　dead。　　When　I　walked　down　the　long　central　all&　of　the　old　ground；　I　saw　at　the　farther　end；　beyond　a　fountain）　twinkling　lights。　　Coming　nearer；　I　found　that　they　proceeded　from　the　large　windows　of　a　building；　which　was　a　part　of　the　arcade。　　People　were　looking　in　at　the　windows；　going　and　coming　to　and　from　them　continually；　and　I　was　prompted　by　curiosity　to　look　within。　　A　most　unexpected　sight　met　my　eye。　　In　a　long　room；　upon　elevated　biers；　lay　people　dead：　they　were　so　disposed　that　the　faces　could　be　seen；　and　there　they　rested　in　a　solemn　repose。　Officers　in　uniform；　citizens　in　plain　dress；　matrons　and　maids　in　the　habits　that　they　wore　when　living；　or　in　the　white　robes　of　the　grave。　　About　most　of　them　were　lighted　candles。　　About　all　of　them　were　flowers：　some　were　almost　covered　with　bouquets。　　There　were　rows　of　children；　little　ones　scarce　a　span　long；in　the　white　caps　and　garments　of　innocence