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widely gathered all over the country�察�that this interest ´ or call it what you 

will ´ has been entirely without spite or bitterness�察�rather the delight of a 

child in a fairy story。 For people are rarely envious of things far removed 

from   their   grasp。 You   will   find   that   a   woman   who   is   bitter   because   her 

neighbor has a girl ;help; or a more comfortable cottage�察�rarely feels envy 

towards the owners of opera´boxes or yachts。 Such heart´burnings ��let us 

hope they are few�� are among a class born in the shadow of great wealth�察�

and   bred   up   with   tastes   that   they  can   neither   relinquish   nor   satisfy。  The 

large   majority   of   people   show   only   a   good´natured   inclination   to   chaff�察�

none of the ;class feeling; which certain papers and certain politicians try 

to    excite。   Outside     of   the  large    cities  with    their   foreign´bred�察     �semi´ 

anarchistic      populations�察    �the   tone   is  perfectly    friendly�察   �for   the  simple 



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reason that it never entered into the head of any American to imagine that 

there WAS any class difference。 To him his rich neighbors are simply his 

lucky neighbors�察�almost his relations�察�who�察�starting from a common stock�察�

have been able to ;get there; sooner than he has done。 So he wishes them 

luck on the voyage in which he expects to join them as soon as he has had 

time to make a fortune。 

     So long as the world exists�察�or at least until we have reformed it and 

adopted   Mr。     Bellamy's    delightful   scheme     of  existence   as   described    in 

;Looking Backward�察─�great fortunes will be made�察�and painful contrasts be 

seen�察�especially in cities�察�and it would seem to be the duty of the press to 

soften ´ certainly not to sharpen ´ the edge of discontent。 As long as human 

nature is human nature�察�and the poor care to read of the doings of the more 

fortunate�察�by all means give them the reading they enjoy and demand�察�but 

let it be written in a kindly spirit so that it may be a cultivation as well as a 

recreation。    Treat   this  perfectly    natural   and   honest   taste   honestly   and 

naturally�察�for�察�after all�察�it is 

       The desire of the moth for the star�察�Of the night for the morrow。 The 

devotion to something afar From the sphere of our sorrow。 



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                CHAPTER 3 ´ Contrasted 

                                 Travelling 



       WHEN our parents went to Europe fifty years ago�察�it was the event of 

a   lifetime   ´   a   tour   lovingly   mapped   out   in   advance   with   advice   from 

travelled   friends。   Passports   were   procured�察  �books   read�察  �wills   made�察  �and 

finally�察  �prayers    were    offered    up   in  church    and   solemn     leave´taking 

performed。 Once on the other side�察�descriptive letters were conscientiously 

written�察  �and   eagerly  read   by  friends   at   home�察   �   in   spite   of   these   epistles 

being on the thinnest of paper and with crossing carried to a fine art�察�for 

postage was high in the forties。 Above all�察�a journal was kept。 

     Such a journal lies before me as I write。 Four little volumes in worn 

morocco   covers   and   faded   ;Italian;   writing�察  �more   precious   than   all   my 

other books combined�察�their sight recalls that lost time ´ my youth ´ when�察�

as a reward�察�they were unlocked that I might look at the drawings�察�and the 

sweetest voice in the world would read to me from them� �Happy�察�vanished 

days�察�that are so far away they seem to have been in another existence� �

     The first volume opens with the voyage across the Atlantic�察�made in an 

American       clipper   ��a  model    unsurpassed      the  world    over���察  �which    was 

accomplished in thirteen days�察�a feat rarely equalled now�察�by sail。 Genial 

Captain     Nye    was    in  command。      The    same    who    later�察 �when    a  steam 

propelled vessel was offered him�察�refused�察�as unworthy of a seaman�察 �to 

boil a kettle across the ocean。; 

     Life friendships were made in those little cabins�察�under the swinging 

lamp the travellers re´read last volumes so as to be prepared to appreciate 

everything on landing。 Ireland�察�England and Scotland were visited with an 

enthusiasm   born   of   Scott�察  �the   tedium   of   long   coaching   journeys   being 

beguiled by the first ;numbers; of ;Pickwick�察─�over which the men of the 

party roared�察�but which the ladies did not care for�察�thinking it vulgar�察�and 

not    to  be  compared      to  ;Waverley�察─     �Thaddeus      of  Warsaw�察─     �or  ;The 

Mysteries of Udolpho。; 

     A circular letter to our diplomatic agents abroad was presented in each 

city�察  �a  rite  invariably    followed     by   an   invitation   to  dine�察  �for   which 



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occasions a black satin frock with a low body and a few simple ornaments�察�

including ��supreme elegance�� a diamond cross�察�were carried in the trunks。 

In London a travelling carriage was bought and stocked�察�the indispensable 

courier engaged�察�half guide�察�half servant�察�who was expected to explore a 

city�察�or wait at table�察�as occasion required。 Four days were passed between 

Havre and Paris�察�and the slow progress across Europe was accomplished�察�

Murray in one hand and Byron in the other。 

     One     page   used   particularly    to  attract   my   boyish    attention。    It  was 

headed by a naive little drawing of the carriage at an Italian inn door�察�and 

described how�察�after the dangers and discomforts of an Alpine pass�察�they 

descended by sunny slopes into Lombardy。 Oh� �the rapture that breathes 

from     those   simple     pages�   �The    vintage    scenes�察   �the   mid´day     halt  for 

luncheon   eaten   in   the   open   air�察  �the   afternoon   start�察  �the   front   seat   of   the 

carriage heaped with purple grapes�察�used to fire my youthful imagination 

and   now   recalls   Madame   de   Stael's   line   on   perfect   happiness�此   �To   be 

young� �to be in love� �to be in Italy� ─�

     Do people enjoy Europe as much now�拭�I doubt it� �It has become too 

much a matter of course�察�a necessary part of the routine of life。 Much of 

the    bloom    is  brushed     from   foreign    scenes    by   descriptive    books    and 

photographs�察  �that   St。   Mark's   or   Mt。   Blanc   has   become   as   familiar   to   a 

child's   eye   as   the house   he   lives   in�察  �and in   consequence   the   reality  now 

instead of being a revelation is often a disappointment。 

     In my youth�察�it was still an event to cross。 I remember my first voyage 

on the old side´wheeled SCOTIA�察�and Captain Judkins in a wheeled chair�察�

and a perpetual bad temper�察�being pushed about the deck�察�and our delight�察�

when the inevitable female asking him ��three days out�� how far we were 

from land�察�got the answer ;about a mile� ─�

     ;Indeed� �How interesting� �In which direction�拭─�

     ;In that direction�察�madam�察─�shouted the captain�察�pointing downward as 

he turned his back to her。 

     If   I   remember�察  �we   were   then   thirteen   days   getting   to   Liverpool�察  �and 

made   the   acquaintance   on   board   of   the   people   with   whom   we   travelled 

during most of that winter。 Imagine anyone now making an acquaintance 

on    board    a  steamer�     �In  those    simple    days   people    depended      on   the 



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friendships made at summer hotels or boarding´ houses for their visiting 

list。  At   present�察   �when    a   girl  comes     out�察 �her   mother    presen

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