cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第32章

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upon　three　sides；　to　the　north；　south；　and　east；　with　the　mountains　of
Asia　Minor　in　the　far　distance。

We　arrived　at　Rizo…Carpas；　which　is　situated　in　a　gently…sloping　vale
about　450　feet　above　the　sea…level；　but　surrounded　upon　all　sides　by
superior　heights；　from　which　the　coast　of　Caramania　is　distinctly
visible　during　clear　weather。　The　valley　and　slopes　are　highly
cultivated　with　cereals；　and　plantations　of　mulberry…trees　for　the
support　of　silkworms；　numerous　caroub…trees　throughout　the　district　give
an　agreeable　and　prosperous　appearance。　Although　there　is　no　actual
town；　native　dwellings　are　dotted　over　the　face　of　the　country　for　some
miles；　ornamented　by　three　churches；　which　present　an　air　of
civilisation　and　prosperity。　The　inhabitants　were；　as　usual；　very
polite；　and　as　Lady　Baker　and　myself　were　sitting　upon　a　rug　beneath　a
tree　which　we　had　selected　for　the　evening's　halt；　and　waiting　for　the
arrival　of　our　camels；　a　crowd　of　women　and　children　arrived　with　the
ugliest　and　most　witch…like　old　hag　that　I　have　ever　seen。　This　old
creature　had　brought　fire　and　dried　olive…leaves　in　a　broken　pot；　with
which　she　immediately　fumigated　us　by　marching　round　several　times；　and
so　manipulating　her　pot　as　to　produce　the　largest　volume　of　smoke。　This
custom；　which　is　so　general　throughout　Cyprus；　is　supposed　to　avert　the
evil…eye；　but　I　imagine　that　it　originated　during　a　period　when　the
plague　or　some　other　fatal　epidemic　was　prevalent　in　the　island；　and
fumigation　was　supposed　to　act　as　a　preventative。

There　is　no　medicinal　property　in　the　olive…leaf；　but　as　the　tree　is
practically　undying；　I　attribute　the　use　of　the　leaves　as　incense　to　be
symbolically　connected　with　the　blessing　of　a　long　life　expressed　to　a
welcomed　guest。　It　is　one　of　those　vestiges　of　tree…worship　which　may　be
traced　in　almost　every　country；　both　savage　and　civilised；　and　may　be
seen　exhibited　in　Egypt；　where　the　almost　everlasting　species　of　aloe　is
suspended　above　the　doorway　of　a　house　as　a　talisman　or　safeguard　to　the
family　within：　the　idea　thus　expressed；　〃As　the　plant　never　dies；　may
your　family　last　for　ever。〃　We　got　rid　of　the　old　hag　and　her　smoky
offering；　and　she　became　lost　in　the　crowd　which　thronged　around　us；
this　was　composed　of　the　ugliest；　dirtiest；　shortest；　and　most　repulsive
lot　of　females　that　I　ever　saw：　it　was　painful　to　look　at　them。

There　was　a　general　complaint　that　the　silkworms　had　deteriorated；　and
that　the　mulberry…trees　had　suffered　from　a　disease　which　had　killed
great　numbers。　It　appeared　to　me　that　the　decay　of　the　trees　was　a
sufficient　reason　for　the　inferiority　of　the　silkworms。　This　was　a
serious　loss　to　the　inhabitants；　as　Rizo…Carpas　was　celebrated　both　for
the　quality　and　quantity　of　its　silk…production。

From　the　watershed　a　few　hundred　yards　behind　our　camp　we　had　a　good
view　of　the　northern　coast　below；　which　extended　in　a　series　of　rocky
bays　and　prominent　points　to　the　west；　while　the　entire　country　from　the
shore　to　the　rising　ground　formed　a　rich　picture　of　caroub…trees　and
plots　of　cultivation。　The　hills　upon　which　we　stood；　about　450　feet
above　the　sea；　were　the　continuations　of　the　long　Carpas　range；　where
the　force　of　the　upheaval　had　become　expended　towards　the　east。　As　we
looked　westward　the　line　of　hills　gradually　heightened；　until　the
well…known　points　of　the　compact　limestone　were　clearly　distinguished
among　the　rugged　outlines　of　the　greater　altitudes。

There　was　nothing　of　interest　to　induce　a　longer　stay　in　Rizo…Carpas；
therefore　we　started　on　the　following　morning　upon　our　return　journey；
and　after　a　lovely　march　of　twenty　miles；　partly　along　an　elevated
plateau　which　commanded　a　view　of　both　seas　north　and　south；　and　then
descending　some　700　or　800　feet　by　a　steep　and　interesting　pass；　we
arrived　at　Lithrankomi；　after　passing　through　Gallibornu。

To　my　astonishment　the　oxen　and　their　drivers；　instead　of　awaiting　me　at
Lithrankomi；　were　still　at　the　latter　village；　and　hearing　that　we　had
passed　through；　they　came　on　to　join　us；　but　only　arrived　some　hours
later；　at　nightfall。　I　discharged　my　camels　that　evening；　as　the　carts
would　begin　their　new　contract　on　the　following　morning。

I　rose　early　on　the　next　day；　as　we　had　a　long　march　of　twenty…two　miles
before　us　to　Trichomo；　but　as　the　oxen　had　been　resting　for　many　days；
and　I　had　been　paying　highly　for　their　food　while　they　had　been　doing
nothing；　I　knew　they　must　be　in　first…rate　condition；　and　in　spite　of
bad　roads　they　would　accomplish　the　distance。　There　was　always　a
difficulty　in　inducing　the　carters　to　start　early；　but　this　morning
there　was　a　greater　delay　than　usual；　and　I　myself　went　to　superintend
the　loading　of　the　carts。　I　could　hardly　believe　my　eyes！　In　Georgi's
cart　the　oxen　had　been　yoked。　There　was　a　black　creature　about　half　a
foot　shorter　than　its　fellow；　and　composed　of　skin　and　bones。　The　horns
of　this　animal　were　antiquities：　a　drawn　appearance　about　the　head　and
face；　and　deeply　sunken　eyes；　denoted　extreme　age。　The　fellow　ox　I
recognised　after　some　time　as　our　old　friend　in　reduced　circumstances；
it　had　been　going　through　a　course　of　wild　artichokes　and　prickly
thistles　since　I　had　seen　it　last；　which　had　brought　it　into　racing
condition　by　the　loss　of　at　least　a　hundredweight　of　flesh；　the　poor
beast　looked　starved。　Georgi　had　accordingly　saved　the　whole　of　the
allowance　I　had　paid　for　food　of　the　best　quality；　which　he　had　pocketed
while　his　animal　was　turned　out　to　graze。　〃Where　are　my　oxen？〃　I
inquired　of　the　conscious　Georgi；　who　wisely　remained　silent。　I　now
turned　to　Theodori's　team；　and　I　at　once　perceived　that　he　also　had
exchanged　one　of　the　superb　oxen　which　I　had　hired；　and　upon　which　I　had
depended　for　drawing　the　gipsy…van；　but　the　new　purchase　was　a　very
beautiful　animal；　although　inferior　in　height　to　its　companion；　which
had　much　fallen　off　in　condition；　having　been　fed　upon　the　same
unnutritious　food。　I　had　been　regularly　done；　as　the　animals　for　which　I
had　paid　highly　had　not　only　been　neglected；　but　had　been　exchanged。

I　very　quickly　explained　to　the　proprietors　that　they　had　no　right
whatever　to　exchange　the　oxen　which　I　had　engaged；　and　for　which　I　was
paying　in　my　absence；　therefore　I　should　refuse　to　accept　them；　as　the
contract　was　broken；　and　I　immediately　ordered　the　camels　to　be　loaded
with　the　contents　of　the　carts。　Fortunately　the　discharged　animals　were
grazing　within　a　few　yards　of　our　camp。

My　servants　now　explained　that　Georgi　the　thick…headed　had　been　done　by
his　dear　friend　and　companion　Theodori；　〃the　man　of　ability；〃　who　had
accompanied　me　into　the　Carpas　with　the　sole　intention　of
cattle…dealing。　It　appeared　that　after　my　departure　from　Gallibornu；
Theodori　had　suggested　to　his　friend　that　a　saving　might　be　effected　in
the　keep　of　four　animals　by　reducing　them　to　two；　and　he　advised　that
they　should　at　once　sell　each　one　ox；　and　arrange　to　purchase　new
animals　by　the　time　that　I　should　return；　they　would　by　this　method
pocket　half　the　sum　which　I　had　agreed　to　pay　daily　for　four　oxen　during
my　absence　at　Cape　St。　Andrea。　They　subsequently　came　to　the　conclusion
that　their　remaining　oxen　should　live　upon　their　wits　and　thistles；
instead　of　causing　an　expense　in　the　purchase　of　cotton…seed；　lentils；
and　tibbin　（broken　barley…straw）。　Theodori　informed　Georgi　that　he　knew
of　two　beautiful　animals　that　might　be　obtained　by　the　exchange　of　two
of　their　oxen　with　a　small　sum　of　money　in　addition；　and　he　would
arrange　the　matter　if　Georgi　would　part　with　the　dark　cream…coloured　ox
with　black　points　（his　best）。　Of　course　the　innocent…minded；
broad…shouldered；　herculean　Georgi　knew　that　his　friend　would　protect
his　interests；　and　he　left　the　matter　in　his　hands。　The　unmitigated
rascal　Theodori　knew　that　the　beautiful　fat　red　ox　that　he　wished　to
purchase　was　some　years　younger　than　the　old　well…trained　oxen　which
formed　his　pair；　and　therefore　it　would　be　more　valuable；　he　accordingly
agreed　to　give　one　of　his　oxen　and　one　of　Georgi's　FOR　A　PAIR　from　the
proprietor　of　the　fat　red　animal；　who　consented　to　the　exchange；
receiving　the　two　fine　animals　which　I　had