cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第33章

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proprietor　of　the　fat　red　animal；　who　consented　to　the　exchange；
receiving　the　two　fine　animals　which　I　had　hired　and；　giving　the
valuable　young　red　ox　together　with　the　miserable　old　creature　that　I
had　seen　that　morning　in　the　yoke。　This　worn…out　old　skeleton　was　to　be
Georgi's　share　of　the　bargain！　I　told　Georgi　that　my　dogs　would　not　eat
the　animal　if　it　should　die；　as　it　was　too　thin。　My　servants　burst　out
laughing　when　Christo　the　cook　translated　the　account　of　the
transaction。　The　shameless　scoundrel　Theodori；　who　was　present；　SMILED
at　the　relation　of　his　shrewdness；　and　the　big　Georgi　burst　out　crying
like　a　child　at　the　loss　of　his　fine　ox；　the　duplicity　of　his　friend；
and　the　want　of　sympathy　of　the　bystanders；　who　made　a　joke　of　his
misfortune。　I　was　very　sorry　for　poor　Georgi；　as　he　was　really　an
excellent　fellow；　he　had　been　only　foolish　in　trusting　to　the　honour　of
his　friend；　like　some　good　people　who　apply　for　assistance　to　Lord
Penzance；　however；　there　was　no　help　for　it；　and　he　departed　crying
bitterly。

My　servants　were　fond　of　the　man；　and　their　hearts　began　to　soften　after
they　had　enjoyed　the　first　hearty　laugh　at　Georgi's　expense；　and
Christo；　who　was　always　the　factotum；　shortly　came　with　a　suggestion；
that；　〃If　I　would　write　an　order　for　the　immediate　return　of　Georgi's
bullock；　on　the　plea　that　as　I　had　hired　the　animal　no　one　had　a　right
to　exchange　it　until　the　expiration　of　my　contract；〃　there　would　be　no
difficulty；　as　〃the　purchaser　would　be　afraid　to　retain　the　animal　upon
seeing　Georgi　armed　with　a　written　paper。〃　〃But；〃　I　said；　〃what　is　the
use　of　my　writing　in　English；　which　no　one　can　understand？〃　Christo
assured　me　that　it　would　have　a　better　effect　if　nobody　could　read　the
contents；　as　Georgi　could　then　say　anything　he　pleased。　I　wrote　an　order
for　the　return　of　the　ox　as　belonging　temporarily　to　me　by　contract；　and
Georgi　having　wiped　his　eyes；　immediately　set　off　on　foot　towards
Gallibornu；　full　of　confidence　and　hope。

Theodori　declared　that　it　would　be　impossible　for　his　oxen　to　reach
Trichomo　in　one　day；　I　therefore　loaded　the　camels；　and　advised　him　to
await　Georgi's　return；　should　they　re…appear　at　Kuklia；　where　the　vans
were　lying；　I　would　re…engage　them　as　far　as　Lefkosia；　and　in　the
meantime　I　would　pay　them　for　the　daily　keep　of　their　animals；　who　were
to　be　well　fed；　and　to　discontinue　the　course　of　wild　artichokes　and
thistles。

We　took　a　different　route　upon　leaving　Lithrankomi；　by　keeping　upon　the
high　plateau　instead　of　the　lower　valleys　through　which　we　had　arrived
on　our　way　from　Volokalida。　We　accordingly　left　this　village　some　miles
to　the　south；　but　as　we　were　passing　through　a　broad　cultivated　plain；　a
portion　of　which　had　recently　been　ploughed；　we　observed　a　crowd　of
women　and　girls　who　were　engaged　with　baskets　in　collecting　wild
artichokes；　which　the　plough　had　dislodged。　As　we　approached　a　sudden
rush　was　made　in　our　direction；　the　baskets　were　placed　upon　the　ground；
and　a　race　took　place　over　the　heavy　soil　to　see　who　would　be　the　first
to　greet　us。　We　discovered　that　these　were　our　friends　of　Volokalida；
who　had　walked　across　the　hills　in　a　large　party　to　collect　wild
vegetables；　they　seemed　delighted　to　see　us；　and　insisted　upon　shaking
hands；　which；　as　they　had　been　grubbing　in　the　freshly…turned　ground；
was　rather　a　mouldy　operation。　We　shook　hands　with　about　thirty　members
of　this　primitive　agricultural　society；　and　were　glad　to　waive　an　adieu
before　the　arrival　of　the　older　women　in　the　rear；　who　with　their　heavy
nailed　boots　were　running　towards　us；　plunging　about　in　the　deep　ground
in　clumsy　attempts　at　juvenile　activity。　A　few　of　the　young　women　were
very　pretty；　but；　as　usual　in　Cyprus；　their　figures　were　ungainly；　and
their　movements；　hampered　by　baggy　trousers　and　enormous　high　boots；
were　most　ungraceful。

On　arrival　at　Trichomo　we　pitched　our　tent　at　some　distance　from　the
dwelling　in　which　we　had　fed　some　thousand　fleas　upon　our　former　visit；
and　on　the　following　morning　I　determined　to　go　straight　Famagousta；
about　twelve　miles　distant。

The　route　from　Trichomo　is　for　the　most　part　along　the　seashore；　but
occasionally　cutting　off　the　bends　by　a　direct　line。　The　plain　is　a　dead
level；　as　it　has　been　entirely　deposited　by　the　floods　of　the　Pedias
river。　We　rode　tolerably　fast；　the　sun　being　hot　and　the　country　most
uninteresting；　we　had　left　the　shrub…covered　surface　of　the　Carpas　with
its　romantic　cliffs　and　deep　valleys　rich　in　verdure；　and　once　more　we
were　upon　the　hateful　treeless　plain　of　Messaria。　During　our　sojourn　in
the　Carpas　district　the　rainfall　by　our　gauge　had　been　1。28　inches；　but
in　this　unattractive　region　there　had　only　been　one　or　two　faint
showers；　hardly　sufficient　to　lay　the　dust。　The　crops　about　five　inches
above　the　ground　were　almost　dead；　and　the　young　wheat　and　barley　were
completely　withered。

About　four　or　five　miles　from　Famagousta　we　arrived　at　the　ruins　of
ancient　Salamis。　The　stringent　prohibition　of　the　British　authorities
against　a　search　for　antiquities　in　Cyprus　had　destroyed　the　interest
which　would　otherwise　have　been　taken　by　travellers　in　such
explorations。　As　I　have　before　remarked；　there　are　no　remains　to　attract
attention　upon　the　surface；　but　all　ancient　works　are　buried　far
beneath；　therefore　in　the　absence　of　permission　to　excavate；　the
practical　study　of　the　past　is　impossible；　and　it　is　a　sealed　book。
Fortunately　General　di　Cesnola　has　published　his　most　interesting
volume；　combining　historical　sketches　of　ancient　times　with　a　minute
description　of　the　enormous　collection　of　antiquities　which　rewarded　his
labours　during　ten　years'　research；　so　that　if　our　government　will
neither　explore　nor　permit　others　to　investigate；　we　have　at　least　an
invaluable　fund　of　information　collected　by　those　whose　consular
position　during　the　Turkish　rule　enabled　them　to　make　additions　to　our
historical　knowledge。　Mr。　Hamilton　Lang　has　also　published　his
experiences　of　a　long　residence　in　the　island；　during　which　his
successful　excavations　brought　to　light　valuable　relics　of　the　past
which　explain　more　forcibly　than　the　leaves　of　a　book　the　manners；
customs；　and　incidents　among　the　various　races　which　have　made　up
Cyprian　history。　General　di　Cesnola；　after　quoting　the　legend　which
connects　the　origin　of　Salamis　with　the　arrival　of　a　colony　of　Greeks
under　Teucer　（the　son　of　Telamon；　king　of　the　island　of　Salamis）　from
the　Trojan　expedition；　continues；　〃Of　the　history　of　Salamis　almost
nothing　is　known　till　we　come　to　the　time　of　the　Persian　wars；　but　from
that　time　down　to　the　reign　of　the　Ptolemies　it　was　by　far　the　most
conspicuous　and　flourishing　of　the　towns　of　Cyprus。〃　〃Onesius　seized　the
government　of　Salamis　from　his　brother；　Gorgus；　and　set　up　an　obstinate
resistance　to　the　Persian　oppression　under　which　the　island　was
labouring；　about　500　B。C。　In　the　end　he　was　defeated　by　a　Persian　army
and　fell　in　battle；　and　it　was　about　this　time；　if　not　in　consequence　of
this　defeat；　that　the　dynasty　of　Teucer　was；　for　a　period；　removed　from
the　government　of　Salamis。　As　to　the　length　of　this　period　there　is
great　obscurity。　It　seems；　however；　to　be　certain　that　with　the　help　of
the　Persians　a　Tyrian　named　Abdemon　had　seized　the　throne；　and　not　only
paid　tribute　to　Persia；　but　endeavoured　to　extend　the　Persian　power　over
the　rest　of　the　island。　To　Salamis　itself　he　invited　Phoenician
immigrants；　and　introduced　Asiatic　tastes　and　habits。〃　Following　upon
this　usurpation　came　the　revolt　and　the　restoration　of　the　Teucer
dynasty；　under　Evagoras；　B。C。　374；　and　eventually　upon　the　partition　of
the　empire　of　Alexander　the　Great　it　fell　to　the　lot　of　Antigonus；　after
the　severe　contests　between　Demetrius　and　Menelaus。

Like　all　ancient　sea…ports　of　importance；　Salamis　was　the　object　of
continual　attacks；　and　by　degrees　its　prosperity　declined。　In　addition
to　the　damage　and　loss　by　sieges；　it　was　seriously　affected　by　an
earthquake；　and　a　portion　disappeared　beneath　the　sea。　The　sand　has
submerged　a　large　area　of　the　ruins　which　face　the　sea；　but　General　di
Cesnola　was　able　to　trace　the　ancient　wall　for　a　dista