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                            An Old Town By The Sea 



An Old Town By The Sea 



                   by Thomas Bailey Aldrich 



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                                  An Old Town By The Sea 



                   PISCATAQUA RIVER 



    Thou   singest   by   the   gleaming   isles�察  �By   woods�察  �and   fields   of   corn�察�

Thou singest�察�and the sunlight smiles Upon my birthday morn。 

    But I within a city�察�I�察�So full of vague unrest�察�Would almost give my 

life to lie An hour upon upon thy breast。 

    To let the wherry listless go�察�And�察�wrapt in dreamy joy�察�Dip�察�and surge 

idly to and fro�察�Like the red harbor´buoy�察�

    To sit in happy indolence�察�To rest upon the oars�察�And catch the heavy 

earthy scents That blow from summer shores�察�

    To see the rounded sun go down�察�And with its parting fires Light up 

the windows of the town And burn the tapering spires�察�

    And then to hear the muffled tolls From steeples slim and white�察�And 

watch�察�among the Isles of Shoals�察�The Beacon's orange light。 

    O River� �flowing to the main Through woods�察�and fields of corn�察�Hear 

thou my longing and my pain This sunny birthday morn�察�

    And take this song which fancy shapes To music like thine own�察�And 

sing it to the cliffs and capes And crags where I am known� �



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                                     An Old Town By The Sea 



               I。 CAPTAIN JOHN SMITH 



     I   CALL   it   an   old   town�察  �but   it  is  only   relatively   old。  When      one 

reflects on the countless centuries that have gone to the for´mation of this 

crust of earth on which we temporarily move�察�the most ancient cities on its 

surface seem merely things of the week before last。 It was only the other 

day�察�thenthat is to say�察�in the month of June�察�1603that one Martin Pring�察�

in the ship Speedwell�察�an enormous ship of nearly fifty tons burden�察�from 

Bristol�察   �England�察     �sailed   up    the   Piscataqua     River。     The     Speedwell�察�

numbering thirty men�察�officers and crew�察�had for consort the Discoverer�察�

of twenty´six tons and thirteen men。 After following the windings of ;the 

brave river; for twelve miles or more�察�the two vessels turned back and put 

to sea again�察�having failed in the chief object of the expedition�察�which was 

to obtain a cargo of the medicinal sassafras´tree�察�from the bark of which�察�

as well known to our ancestors�察�could be distilled the Elixir of Life。 

     It was at some point on the left bank of the Piscataqua�察�three or four 

miles   from   the   mouth   of   the   river�察  �that   worthy   Master   Pring   probably 

effected one of his several landings。 The beautiful stream widens suddenly 

at   this  place�察   �and   the  green    banks�察   �then   covered     with   a  network     of 

strawberry   vines�察  �and   sloping   invitingly   to   the   lip   of   the   crystal   water�察�

must have won the tired mariners。 

     The   explorers   found   themselves   on the   edge   of   a vast   forest   of   oak�察�

hemlock�察�maple�察�and pine�察�but they saw no sassafras´trees to speak of�察�nor 

did   they   encounterwhat   would   have   been   infinitely  less   to   their   taste 

and   red´men。      Here   and   there   were   discoverable   the   scattered   ashes   of 

fires   where   the   Indians   had   encamped   earlier   in   the   spring�察  �they   were 

absent now�察�at the silvery falls�察�higher up the stream�察�where fish abounded 

at   that   season。   The   soft   June   breeze�察  �laden   with   the   delicate   breath   of 

wild´flowers       and   the   pungent     odors    of  spruce    and    pine�察  �ruffled   the 

duplicate sky in the water�察�the new leaves lisped pleasantly in the tree tops�察�

and the birds were singing as if they had gone mad。                   No ruder sound or 

movement   of   life   disturbed   the   primeval   solitude。   Master   Pring   would 

scarcely recognize the spot were he to land there to´day。 

     Eleven years afterwards a much cleverer man than the commander of 



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                                      An Old Town By The Sea 



the   Speedwell dropped   anchor in   the   PiscataquaCaptain   John   Smith   of 

famous      memory。       After     slaying    Turks    in   hand´to´hand       combats�察    �and 

doing   all   sorts   of   doughty   deeds   wherever   he   chanced   to   decorate   the 

globe with his presence�察�he had come with two vessels to the fisheries on 

the rocky selvage of Maine�察�when curiosity�察�or perhaps a deeper motive�察�

led him to examine the neighboring shore lines。                  With eight of his men in 

a   small   boat�察  �a   ship's   yawl�察  �he   skirted   the   coast   from   Penobscot   Bay   to 

Cape     Cod�察   �keeping     his   eye   open。    This    keeping     his   eye   open    was   a 

peculiarity of the little captain�察�possibly a family trait。               It was Smith who 

really discovered the Isles of Shoals�察�exploring in person those masses of 

bleached rockthose ;isles assez hautes�察─�of which the French navigator 

Pierre de Guast�察�Sieur de Monts�察�had caught a bird's´eye glimpse through 

the twilight in 1605。 Captain Smith christened the group Smith's Isles�察�a 

title which posterity�察�with singular persistence of ingratitude�察�has ignored。 

It   was   a   tardy   sense   of   justice   that   expressed   itself   a   few   years   ago   in 

erecting   on   Star   Island   a   simple   marble   shaft   to   the   memory   of   JOHN 

SMITHthe   multitudinous�             �Perhaps    this   long   delay   is   explained     by   a 

natural hesitation to label a monument so ambiguously。 

     The   modern   Jason�察  �meanwhile�察  �was   not   without   honor   in   his   own 

country�察  �whatever   may   have   happened   to   him  in   his   own   house�察  �for   the 

poet George Wither addressed a copy of pompous verses ;To his Friend 

Captain Smith�察�upon his Description of New England。;;Sir�察─�he says 

               ;Sir�此  �your    Relations     I  haue    read�此  �which     shew           Ther's 

reason   I   should   honor   them   and   you�此           �And   if   their   meaning   I   have 

vnderstood�察           �I   dare   to   censure   thus�此  �Your   Project's   good�察         �And 

may ��if follow'd�� doubtlesse quit the paine                    With honour�察�pleasure and 

a   trebble    gaine�察        �Beside     the   benefit   that   shall   arise        To    make 

more happy our Posterities。; 

     The   earliest   map   of   this   portion   of   our   seaboard   was   prepared   by 

Smith   and   laid   before   Prince   Charles�察  �who   asked   to   give   the   country   a 

name。 He christened it New England。                 In that remarkable map the site of 

Portsmouth is call Hull�察�and Kittery and York are known as Boston。 

     It was doubtless owing to Captain John Smith's representation on his 

return   to   England   that   the   Laconia   Company   selected   the   banks   of   the 



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                                     An Old Town By The Sea 



Piscataqua for their plantation。 Smith was on an intimate footing with Sir 

Ferinand Gorges�察�who�察�five years subsequently�察�made a tour of inspection 

along     the   New     England     coast�察  �in   company      with   John    Mason�察     �then 

Governor of Newfoundland。              One of the results of this summer cruise is 

the town of Portsmouth�察�among whose leafy ways�察�and into some of whose 

old´fashioned houses�察�I purpose to take the reader�察�if he have an idle hour 

on his hands。 Should we meet the flitting ghost of some old´time worthy�察�

on the staircase or at a lonely street corner�察�the reader must be prepared for 

it。 



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