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the ways of men(繁断議返粁)-及19嫗

弌傍�� the ways of men(繁断議返粁) 忖方�� 耽匈4000忖

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     It is�察�for instance�察�difficult to conceive of a Paris that ended at the rue 

Royale�察�with only waste land and market gardens beyond the Madeleine�察�

where   to´day   so   many   avenues   open   their   stately   perspectives�察  �yet   such 

was the case� �The few fine residences that existed beyond that point faced 

the   Faubourg   Saint´Honore�察  �with   gardens   running   back   to   an   unkempt 

open   country   called   the   Champs   Elysees�察  �where   an   unfinished   Arc   de 

Triomphe       stood   alone   in   a  wilderness    that   no  one    ever   dreamed     of 

traversing。 

     The   fashionable   ladies   of   that   time   drove   in   the   afternoon   along   the 

boulevards   from   the   Madeleine   to   the   Chateau   d'Eau�察  �and   stopped   their 

ponderous yellow barouches at Tortoni's�察�where ices were served to them 

in their carriages�察�while they chatted with immaculate dandies in skin´tight 

nankeen   unmentionables�察  �blue   swallow´tailed   coats�察  �and   furry   `beaver; 

hats。 

     While looking over   some   books in the   company  of   an old   lady  who 

from time to time opens her store of treasures and recalls her remote youth 

at my request�察�and whose SPIRITUEL and graphic language gives to her 

souvenirs the air of being stray chapters from some old´fashioned romance�察�

I received a vivid impression of how the French capital must have looked 

fifty years ago。 

     Emptying in her company a chest of books that had not seen the light 



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for   several   decades�察  �we   came   across   a   ;Panorama   of   the   Boulevards�察─�

dated   1845�察  �which   proved   when   unfolded   to   be   a   colored   lithograph�察  �a 

couple of   yards   long   by  five   or six   inches   high�察 �representing the   line of 

boulevards   from   the   Madeleine   to   the   Place   de   la   Bastille。   Each   house�察�

almost each tree�察�was faithfully depicted�察�together with the crowds on the 

sidewalks and the carriages in the street。 The whole scene was as different 

from the effect made by that thoroughfare to´day as though five hundred 

and   not   fifty   years   had   elapsed   since   the   little   book   was   printed。   The 

picture breathed an atmosphere of calm and nameless quaintness that one 

finds now only in old provincial cities which have escaped the ravages of 

improvement。 

     My   companion   sat   with   the   book   unfolded   before   her�察  �in   a   smiling 

trance。 Her mind had turned back to the far´away days when she first trod 

those streets a bride�察�with all the pleasures and few of the cares of life to 

think about。 

     I watched her in silence ��it seemed a sacrilege to break in on such a 

train of thought���察�until gradually her eyes lost their far´away expression�察�

and�察  �turning   to   me   with   a   smile�察  �she   exclaimed�此   �How   we   ever   had   the 

courage to appear in the street dressed as we were is a mystery� �Do you 

see   that   carriage�拭─  �pointing   in   the   print   to   a   high´swung   family   vehicle 

with a powdered coachman on the box�察�and two sky´blue lackeys standing 

behind。 ;I can remember�察�as if it were yesterday�察�going to drive with Lady 

B´�察  �the   British   ambassadress�察  �in   just   such   a   conveyance。   She drove   four 

horses with feathers on their heads�察�when she used to come to Meurice's 

for me。 I blush when I think that my frock was so scant that I had to raise 

the skirt almost to my knees in order to get into her carriage。 

     ;Why we didn't all die of pneumonia is another marvel�察�for we wore 

low´necked   dresses   and   the   thinnest   of   slippers   in   the   street�察  �our   heads 

being about the only part that was completely covered。 I was particularly 

proud of a turban surmounted with a bird of paradise�察�but Lady B´ affected 

poke   bonnets�察  �then   just   coming   into   fashion�察  �so   large   and   so   deep   that 

when one looked at her from the side nothing was visible except two curls�察�

`as damp and as black as leeches。' In other ways our toilets were absurdly 

unsuited   for  every´day  wear�察  �we  wore  light   scarves   over  our necks�察  �and 



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rarely used furlined pelisses。; 

     Returning to an examination of the panorama�察�my companion pointed 

out to me that there was no break in the boulevards�察�where the opera´house�察�

with   its   seven   radiating   avenues�察  �now   stands�察  �but   a   long   line   of   Hotels�察�

dozing       behind     high    walls�察   �and    quaint     two´storied      buildings     that 

undoubtedly dated from the razing of the city wall and the opening of the 

new thoroughfare under Louis XV。 

     A  little   farther   on   was   the   world´famous   Maison   Doree�察  �where   one 

almost expected to see Alfred de Musset and le docteur Veron dining with 

Dumas and Eugene Sue。 

     ;What   in   the   name   of   goodness   is   that�拭─  �I   exclaimed�察  �pointing   to   a 

couple   of   black   and   yellow   monstrosities   on   wheels�察  �which   looked   like 

three carriages joined together with a ;buggy; added on in front。 

     ;That's the diligence just arrived from Calais�察�it has been two days EN 

ROUTE�察  �the   passengers   sleeping   as   best   they   could�察  �side   by   side�察  �and 

escaping from their confinement only when horses were changed or while 

stopping      for  meals。    That    high   two´wheeled       trap  with    the  little  `tiger' 

standing up behind is a tilbury。 We used to see the Count d'Orsay driving 

one   like   that   almost   every   day。   He   wore   butter´colored   gloves�察  �and   the 

skirts of his coat were pleated full all around�察�and stood out like a ballet 

girl's。   It   is   a   pity   they   have   not   included   Louis   Philippe   and   his   family 

jogging off to Neuilly in the court `carryall��' ´ the `Citizen King��' with his 

blue umbrella between his knees�察�trying to look like an honest bourgeois�察�

and failing even in that attempt to please the Parisians。 

     ;We were in Paris in '48�察�from my window at Meurice's I saw poor old 

JUSTE MILIEU read his abdication from the historic middle balcony of 

the Tuileries�察�and half an hour later we perceived the Duchesse d'Orleans 

leave  the Tuileries   on   foot�察  �leading   her  two   sons   by  the  hand�察  �and   walk 

through   the   gardens   and   across   the   Place   de   la   Concorde   to   the   Corps 

Legislatif�察  �in   a   last   attempt   to   save   the   crown   for   her   son。   Futile   effort� �

That evening the `Citizen King' was hurried through those same gardens 

and into a passing cab�察�EN ROUTE for a life exile。 

     ;Our balcony at Meurice's was a fine point of observation from which 

to watch a revolution。 With an opera´glass we could see the mob surging 



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to the sack of the palace�察�the priceless furniture and bric´a´brac flung into 

the street�察�court dresses waved on pikes from the tall windows�察�and finally 

the throne brought out�察�and carried off to be burned。 There was no keeping 

the men of our party in after that。 They rushed off to have a nearer glimpse 

of the fighting�察�and we saw no more of them until daybreak the following 

morning   when�察  �just   as   we   were   preparing   to   send   for   the   police�察  �two 

dilapidated�察  �ragged�察  �black´faced   mortals   appeared�察  �in   whom   we   barely 

recognized      our   husbands。     They    had    been   impressed     into   service   and 

passed     their  night    building    barricades。    My    better   half�察 �however�察    �had 

succeeded in snatching a handful of the gold fringe from the throne as it 

was carri

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