the complete writings-2-第30章

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e　king；　on　Sunday；　walked　out　with　the　Duke　of　Hesse　after　dinner　（one　would　like　to　know　if　they　also　had　sauerkraut　and　sausage）；　and　that　his　prospective　mother…in…law；　the　Empress　of　Russia；　who　was　here　the　other　day；　on　her　way　home　from　Como；　where　she　was　nearly　drowned　out　by　the　inundation；　sat　for　an　hour　on　Sunday　night；　after　the　opera；　in　the　winter　garden　of　the　palace；　enjoying　the　most　easy　family　intercourse。

But　about　moving。　　Let　me　tell　you　that　to　change　quarters　in　the　face　of　a　Munich　winter；　which　arrives　here　the　1st　of　November；　is　like　changing　front　to　the　enemy　just　before　a　battle；　and　if　we　had　perished　in　the　attempt；　it　might　have　been　put　upon　our　monuments；　as　it　is　upon　the　out…of…cannon…cast　obelisk　in　the　Karolina　Platz；　erected　to　the　memory　of　the　thirty　thousand　Bavarian　soldiers　who　fell　in　the　disastrous　Russian　winter　campaign　of　Napoleon；　fighting　against　all　the　interests　of　Germany；〃they；　too；　died　for　their　Fatherland。〃　　Bavaria　happened　also　to　fight　on　the　wrong　side　at　Sadowa　and　I　suppose　that　those　who　fell　there　also　died　for　Fatherland：　it　is　a　way　the　Germans　have　of　doing；　and　they　mean　nothing　serious　by　it。　　But；　as　I　was　saying；　to　change　quarters　here　as　late　as　November　is　a　little　difficult；　for　the　wise　ones　seek　to　get　housed　for　the　winter　by　October：　they　select　the　sunny　apartments；　get　on　the　double　windows；　and　store　up　wood。　　The　plants　are　tied　up　in　the　gardens；　the　fountains　are　covered　over；　and　the　inhabitants　go　about　in　furs　and　the　heaviest　winter　clothing　long　before　we　should　think　of　doing　so　at　home。　　And　they　are　wise：　the　snow　comes　early；　and；　besides；　a　cruel　fog；　cold　as　the　grave　and　penetrating　as　remorse；　comes　down　out　of　the　near　Tyrol。　　One　morning　early　in　November；　I　looked　out　of　the　window　to　find　snow　falling；　and　the　ground　covered　with　it。　　There　was　dampness　and　frost　enough　in　the　air　to　make　it　cling　to　all　the　tree…twigs；　and　to　take　fantastic　shapes　on　all　the　queer　roofs　and　the　slenderest　pinnacles　and　most　delicate　architectural　ornamentations。　　The　city　spires　had　a　mysterious　appearance　in　the　gray　haze；　and　above　all；　the　round…topped　towers　of　the　old　Frauenkirche；　frosted　with　a　little　snow；　loomed　up　more　grandly　than　ever。　　When　I　went　around　to　the　Hof　Garden；　where　I　late　had　sat　in　the　sun；　and　heard　the　brown　horse…chestnuts　drop　on　the　leaves；　the　benches　were　now　full　of　snow；　and　the　fat　and　friendly　fruit…woman　at　the　gate　had　retired　behind　glass　windows　into　a　little　shop；　which　she　might　well　warm　by　her　own　person；　if　she　radiated　heat　as　readily　as　she　used　to　absorb　it　on　the　warm　autumn　days；　when　I　have　marked　her　knitting　in　the　sunshine。

But　we　are　not　moving。　　The　first　step　we　took　was　to　advertise　our　wants　in　the　〃Neueste　Nachrichten〃　（〃Latest　News　〃）　newspaper。　　We　desired；　if　possible；　admission　into　some　respectable　German　family；　where　we　should　be　forced　to　speak　German；　and　in　which　our　society；　if　I　may　so　express　it；　would　be　some　compensation　for　our　bad　grammar。　　We　wished　also　to　live　in　the　central　part　of　the　city；in　short；　in　the　immediate　neighborhood　of　all　the　objects　of　interest　（which　are　here　very　much　scattered）；　and　to　have　pleasant　rooms。　　In　Dresden；　where　the　people　are　not　so　rich　as　in　Munich；　and　where　different　customs　prevail；　it　is　customary　for　the　best　people；　I　mean　the　families　of　university　professors；　for　instance；　to　take　in　foreigners；　and　give　them　tolerable　food　and　a　liberal　education。　Here　it　is　otherwise。　　Nearly　all　families　occupy　one　floor　of　a　building；　renting　just　rooms　enough　for　the　family；　so　that　their　apartments　are　not　elastic　enough　to　take　in　strangers；　even　if　they　desire　to　do　so。　　And　generally　they　do　not。　　Munich　society　is　perhaps　chargeable　with　being　a　little　stiff　and　exclusive。　　Well；　we　advertised　in　the　〃Neueste　Nachrichten。〃　　This　is　the　liberal　paper　of　Munich。　　It　is　a　poorly　printed；　black…looking　daily　sheet；　folded　in　octavo　size；　and　containing　anywhere　from　sixteen　to　thirty…four　pages；　more　or　less；　as　it　happens　to　have　advertisements。　　It　sometimes　will　not　have　more　than　two　or　three　pages　of　reading　matter。　　There　will　be　a　scrap　or　two　of　local　news；　the　brief　telegrams　taken　from　the　official　paper　of　the　day　before；　a　bit　or　two　of　other　news；　and　perhaps　a　short　and　slashing　editorial　on　the　ultramontane　party。　　The　advantage　of　printing　and　folding　it　in　such　small　leaves　is；　that　the　size　can　be　varied　according　to　the　demands　of　advertisements　or　news　（if　the　German　papers　ever　find　out　what　that　is）；　so　that　the　publisher　is　always　giving；　every　day；　just　what　it　pays　to　give　that　day；　and　the　reader　has　his　regular　quantity　of　reading　matter；　and　does　not　have　to　pay　for　advertising　space；　which　in　journals　of　unchangeable　form　cannot　always　be　used　profitably。　　This　little　journal　was　started　something　like　twenty　years　ago。　　It　probably　spends　little　for　news；　has　only　one　or；　at　most；　two　editors；　is　crowded　with　advertisements；　which　are　inserted　cheap；　and　costs；　delivered；　a　little　over　six　francs　a　year。　　It　circulates　in　the　city　some　thirty…five　thousand。　　There　is　another　little　paper　here　of　the　same　size；　but　not　so　many　leaves；　called　〃The　Daily　Advertiser；〃　with　nothing　but　advertisements；　principally　of　theaters；　concerts；　and　the　daily　sights；　and　one　page　devoted　to　some　prodigious　yarn；　generally　concerning　America；　of　which　country　its　readers　must　get　the　most　extraordinary　and　frightful　impression。　The　〃Nachrichten〃　made　the　fortune　of　its　first　owner；　who　built　himself　a　fine　house　out　of　it；　and　retired　to　enjoy　his　wealth。　　It　was　recently　sold　for　one　hundred　thousand　guldens；　and　I　can　see　that　it　is　piling　up　another　fortune　for　its　present　owner。　　The　Germans；　who　herein　show　their　good　sense　and　the　high　state　of　civilization　to　which　they　have　reached；　are　very　free　advertisers；　going　to　the　newspapers　with　all　their　wants；　and　finding　in　them　that　aid　which　all　interests　and　all　sorts　of　people；　from　kaiser　to　kerl；　are　compelled；　in　these　days；　to　seek　in　the　daily　journal。　Every　German　town　of　any　size　has　three　or　four　of　these　little　journals　of　flying　leaves；　which　are　excellent　papers　in　every　respect；　except　that　they　look　like　badly　printed　handbills；　and　have　very　little　news　and　no　editorials　worth　speaking　of。　　An　exception　to　these　in　Bavaria　is　the　〃Allgerneine　Zeitung〃　of　Augsburg；　which　is　old　and　immensely　respectable；　and　is　perhaps；　for　extent　of　correspondence　and　splendidly　written　editorials　on　a　great　variety　of　topics；　excelled　by　no　journal　in　Europe　except　the　London　〃Times。〃　　It　gives　out　two　editions　daily；　the　evening　one　about　the　size　of　the　New　York　〃Nation；〃　and　it　has　all　the　telegraphic　news。　It　is　absurdly　old…grannyish；　and　is　malevolent　in　its　pretended　conservatism　and　impartiality。　　Yet　it　circulates　over　forty　thousand　copies；　and　goes　all　over　Germany。

But　were　we　not　saying　something　about　moving？　　The　truth　is；　that　the　best　German　families　did　not　respond　to　our　appeal　with　that　alacrity　which　we　had　no　right　to　expect；　and　did　not　exhibit　that　anxiety　for　our　society　which　would　have　been　such　a　pleasant　evidence　of　their　appreciation　of　the　honor　done　to　the　royal　city　of　Munich　by　the　selection　of　it　as　a　residence　during　the　most　disagreeable　months　of　the　year　by　the　advertising　undersigned。　　Even　the　young　king；　whose　approaching　marriage　to　the　Russian　princess；　one　would　think；　might　soften　his　heart；　did　nothing　to　win　our　regard；　or　to　show　that　he　appreciated　our　residence　〃near〃　his　court；　and；　so　far　as　I　know；　never　read　with　any　sort　of　attention　our　advertisement；　which　was　composed　with　as　much　care　as　Goethe's　〃Faust；〃　and　probably　with　the　use　of　more　dictionaries。　　And　this；　when　he　has　an　extraordinary　large　Residenz；　to　say　nothing　about　other　outlying　palaces　and　comfortable　places　to　live　in；　in　which　I　know　there　are　scores　of　elegantly　furnished　apartments；　which　stand　idle　almost　the　year　round；　and　might　as　well　be　let　to　appreciative　strangers；　who　would　accustom　the　rather　washy　and　fierce　frescoes　on　the　walls　to　be　stared　at。　　I　might　have　selected　rooms；　say　on　the　court　which　looks　on　the　exq