the complete writings-2-第31章
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on the walls to be stared at。 I might have selected rooms； say on the court which looks on the exquisite bronze fountain； Perseus with the head of Medusa； a copy of the one in Florence by Benvenuto Cellini； where we could have a southern exposure。 Or we might； so it would seem； have had rooms by the winter garden； where tropical plants rejoice in perennial summer； and blossom and bear fruit； while a northern winter rages without。 Yet the king did not see it 〃by those lamps；〃 and I looked in vain on the gates of the Residenz for the notice so frequently seen on other houses； of apartments to let。 And yet we had responses。 The day after the announcement appeared； our bell ran perpetually； and we had as many letters as if we had advertised for wives innumerable。 The German notes poured in upon us in a flood； each one of them containing an offer tempting enough to beguile an angel out of paradise； at least； according to our translation： they proffered us chambers that were positively overheated by the flaming sun （which； I can take my oath； only ventures a few feet above the horizon at this season）； which were friendly in appearance； splendidly furnished and near to every desirable thing； and in which； usually； some American family had long resided； and experienced a content and happiness not to be felt out of Germany。
I spent some days in calling upon the worthy frauen who made these alluring offers。 The visits were full of profit to the student of human nature； but profitless otherwise。 I was ushered into low； dark chambers； small and dreary； looking towards the sunless north； which I was assured were delightful and even elegant。 I was taken up to the top of tall houses； through a smell of cabbage that was appalling； to find empty and dreary rooms； from which I fled in fright。 We were visited by so many people who had chambers to rent； that we were impressed with the idea that all Munich was to let； and yet； when we visited the places offered； we found they were only to be let alone。 One of the frauen who did us the honor to call； also wrote a note； and inclosed a letter that she had just received from an American gentleman （I make no secret of it that he came from Hartford）； in which were many kindly expressions for her welfare； and thanks for the aid he had received in his study of German； and yet I think her chambers are the most uninviting in the entire city。 There were people who were willing to teach us German； without rooms or board； or to lodge us without giving us German or food； or to feed us； and let us starve intellectually； and lodge where we could。
But all things have an end； and so did our hunt for lodgings。 I chanced one day in my walk to find； with no help from the advertisement； very nearly what we desired；cheerful rooms in a pleasant neighborhood； where the sun comes when it comes out at all； and opposite the Glass Palace； through which the sun streams in the afternoon with a certain splendor； and almost next door to the residence and laboratory of the famous chemist； Professor Liebig； so that we can have our feelings analyzed whenever it is desirable。 When we had set up our household gods； and a fire was kindled in the tall white porcelain family monument； which is called here a stove； and which； by the way； is much more agreeable than your hideous black and air…scorching cast…iron stoves；and seen that the feather…beds under which we were expected to lie were thick enough to roast the half of the body； and short enough to let the other half freeze； we determined to try for a season the regular German cookery； our table heretofore having been served with food cooked in the English style with only a slight German flavor。 A week of the experiment was quite enough。 I do not mean to say that the viands served us were not good； only that we could not make up our minds to eat them。 The Germans eat a great deal of meat； and we were obliged to take meat when we preferred vegetables。 Now； when a deep dish is set before you wherein are chunks of pork reposing on stewed potatoes； and another wherein a fathomless depth of sauerkraut supports coils of boiled sausage； which； considering that you are a mortal and responsible being； and have a stomach； will you choose？ Herein Munich； nearly all the bread is filled with anise or caraway seed； it is possible to get； however； the best wheat bread we have eaten in Europe； and we usually have it； but one must maintain a constant vigilance against the inroads of the fragrant seeds。 Imagine； then； our despair； when one day the potato； the one vegetable we had always eaten with perfect confidence； appeared stewed with caraway seeds。 This was too much for American human nature； constituted as it is。 Yet the dish that finally sent us back to our ordinary and excellent way of living is one for which I have no name。 It may have been compounded at different times； have been the result of many tastes or distastes： but there was； after all； a unity in it that marked it as the composition of one master artist； there was an unspeakable harmony in all its flavors and apparently ununitable substances。 It looked like a terrapin soup； but it was not。 Every dive of the spoon into its dark liquid brought up a different object；a junk of unmistakable pork； meat of the color of roast hare； what seemed to be the neck of a goose； something in strings that resembled the rags of a silk dress； shreds of cabbage； and what I am quite willing to take my oath was a bit of Astrachan fur。 If Professor Liebig wishes to add to his reputation； he could do so by analyzing this dish； and publishing the result to the world。
And； while we are speaking of eating； it may be inferred that the Germans are good eaters； and although they do not begin early； seldom taking much more than a cup of coffee before noon； they make it up by very substantial dinners and suppers。 To say nothing of the extraordinary dishes of meats which the restaurants serve at night； the black bread and odorous cheese and beer which the men take on board in the course of an evening would soon wear out a cast…iron stomach in America； and yet I ought to remember the deadly pie and the corroding whisky of my native land。 The restaurant life of the people is； of course； different from their home life； and perhaps an evening entertainment here is no more formidable than one in America； but it is different。 Let me give you the outlines of a supper to which we were invited the other night： it certainly cannot hurt you to read about it。 We sat down at eight。 There were first courses of three sorts of cold meat； accompanied with two sorts of salad； the one； a composite； with a potato basis； of all imaginable things that are eaten。 Beer and bread were unlimited。 There was then roast hare； with some supporting dish； followed by jellies of various sorts； and ornamented plates of something that seemed unable to decide whether it would be jelly or cream； and then came assorted cake and the white wine of the Rhine and the red of Hungary。 We were then surprised with a dish of fried eels； with a sauce。 Then came cheese； and； to crown all； enormous； triumphal…looking loaves of cake； works of art in appearance； and delicious to the taste。 We sat at the table till twelve o'clock； but you must not imagine that everybody sat still all the time； or that； appearances to the contrary notwithstanding； the principal object of the entertainment was eating。 The songs that were sung in Hungarian as well as German； the poems that were recited； the burlesques of actors and acting； the imitations that were inimitable； the take…off of table…tipping and of prominent musicians； the wit and constant flow of fun； as constant as the good…humor and free hospitality； the unconstrained ease of the whole evening； these things made the real supper which one remembers when the grosser meal has vanished； as all substantial things do vanish。
CHRISTMAS TIME…MUSIC
For a month Munich has been preparing for Christmas。 The shop windows have had a holiday look all December。 I see one every day in which are displayed all the varieties of fruits； vegetables； and confectionery possible to be desired for a feast； done in wax；a most dismal exhibition； and ca
